Salzburg Austria Travel Guide

Just along the Bavarian border of Germany lies a neighboring Austrian village that’s straight out of a storybook. Salzburg is most commonly known as the birthplace of Mozart, or as the filming location for The Sound of Music, but rest-assured this charming city is comprised of much more than just that. It's architecture boasts stunning medieval and baroque edifices, well-manicured parks are plentiful and a formidable clifftop fortress set against the northern border of the Alps makes for breathtaking scenery. Yes, Salzburg is an idyllic combination of man-made and natural beauty. My friend Haley (who took most of these amazing pictures!) and I spent three days exploring as much as we could of all this city has to offer (and we could have easily spent more time if it was available!) It was seriously such a magical trip and I'd recommend it to just about everyone (unless you're a troll that hates beautiful scenery). Whenever the time comes to plan a trip of your own, here is what I'd recommend: 

 

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

LANGUAGE: German, although just about everyone speaks English. I always advise to try, at the very least, to say “thank you” in the native tongue, which in this case is “Danke”. 

CURRENCY: Euros. In my experience, bank cards are widely accepted (except for taxis- be sure to have cash for those!) 

GETTING AROUND: Walk! Salzburg is an extremely walkable city that can pretty much be explored entirely by foot. There were a few times we relied on other forms of transportation (i.e. The Sound of Music tour took us around by bus and we did take a cab to dinner once while staying at Schloss Leopolskron). It’s also a great city for biking, although we didn’t have a chance to do that. 

SALZBURG CARD: Our friends at Visit Salzburg provided us with a 72 hour Salzburg Card, which you can purchase to save money as you see the city sights. With a choice between a 24, 48 or 72 hour pass, you'll get free admission to over 30 attractions and museums in the ‘City of Mozart', free use of the public transport network and discounts at numerous other sights. Note: the Sound of Music tour is not part of this, but nevertheless it will cover a lot of other sights so look into it depending on the sights you’re hoping to see!

 

STAY

HOTEL SACHER SALZBURG

Situated in the heart of Mozart's hometown, on the bank of the river Salzach, and opposite the old town, all sites are within walking distance from Hotel Sacher Salzburg. They offer individually furnished rooms that feature numerous antiques and original oil paintings (it was honestly one of the most beautiful rooms I've ever stayed in abroad).

It was evident that the staff is proud of their history and stays true to traditions. When we first arrived, we had the pleasure of sitting down with our new friend Sandra from the marketing department for a glass of prosecco to learn more about the rich history associated with Hotel Sacher Salzburg. She informed us of the infamous Sacher-Torte which has been the most famous cake in the world since 1832 and the original recipe remains a well-kept secret specific to this hotel.  The basis of the entire confection is a chocolate cake, thinly coated by hand with best-quality apricot jam. The chocolate icing on top of it is the crowning glory. It tastes best with a portion of unsweetened whipped cream. Sandra ordered us a slice (which pairs well with a cappuccino!) so we could try it for ourselves and it did not disappoint. Regardless of whether or not you stay here while visiting Salzburg, I definitely recommend at least popping in for a famous slice to experience it yourself!  

Hotel Sacher Salzburg provided the highest standard of comfort, superb service and every modern technology and amenity that we could have wanted. I thoroughly enjoyed our stay here and would definitely recommend it to anyone looking for a luxury experience in Salzburg.

HOTEL SCHLOSS LEOPOLDSKRON

For  the second half of our time in Salzburg, we stayed at Schloss Leopoldskron, which was built in 1736 as a family property of Salzburg's Prince-Archbishop Leopold Anton Freiherr von Firmian (1679-1744). It was later purchased by Max Reinhardt in 1918, who was the most famous theatre impresario at the time. It was in a very dilapidated state when he purchased it, but he concentrated with great creativity on its reconstruction.

More recently though, this infamous property is known to be where many of The Sound of Music scenes were filmed. The most recognizable? The backyard scene at the end of "Do-Re-Mi" watch the video clip below to refresh your memory!) 

As we learned on The Sound of Music tour (more about that in a minute) they actually used two different locations for the Von Trapp family home. Schloss Frohnburg, a 17th century country house, now the Mozarteum Music Academy, was used for the gates and front entrance of the villa where Maria (Julie Andrews) first approaches the Von Trapps after leaving the convent. But the director wanted the backyard to be more scenic with a lake that overlooked the majestic mountains of Salzburg. Thus, all backyard filming locations were filmed at Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron. The actual palace (where we would imagine the Von Trapp being) looks like this.  

*NOTE: You can only visit the grounds if you are a hotel guest, so if you're a Sound of Music enthusiast who wants to see the same exact point of view, you'll have to stay here in order to do so. 

Today, Schloss Leopoldskron serves as the home of the international non-profit organization Salzburg Global Seminar and the Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron.

To this day, the castle is not a museum but a house that is "lived" and offers its guests together with the castle park an extraordinary experience. The castle suites (pictured right) were under construction during our stay, so we stayed in the room pictured below on the left- which is a more affordable and contemporary option. 

This was a wonderful place to stay for many reasons. Aside from all the history and the stunning views, it's quite scaleable from a price perspective, offering something for just about every budget. It's not quite as central as some other properties, but bikes are available to take into the heart of Salzburg and the concierge was most accommodating to order us a cab when we needed it. Overall, you just can't really beat staying on the property where Sound of Music was filmed!

DO

WALK AROUND THE OLD CITY 

Salzburg’s Old Town is one of the best-preserved city centers north of the Alps. It's known for its baroque architecture and of course, it's gorgeous alpine backdrop. The Old Town of Salzburg also earned a spot on UNESCO’s World Heritage List back in 1997, which has helped protect the architecture and layout of Salzburg. Let yourself get lost in the streets, but be sure to pay a visit to some of these spots. 

Salzburg Cathedral in Residenzplatz

Salzach River (view from Hotel Sacher Salzburg)

Mohn Brezen in Residenzplatz where the Salzburger Christkindlmarkt takes place every year.

Residenzplatz

THE SOUND OF MUSIC TOUR

Laugh if you want, but this was probably my favorite thing we did in Salzburg! It's no secret that this city was the backdrop all throughout the hit film that put Julie Andrews on the map, so naturally it attracts crowds from all around the world flocking to see the same picturesque sites. There are a few different tour options, but it's pretty unanimous that the best one is this 4 hour bus tour we did. Once you load onto the bus, they start playing bits of the film that coincide with the sights you're about to see (they even encourage you to sing along!) I was surprised how much ground we covered in the 4 hour time frame- it honestly flew by. Here's what you can expect to see: 

STOP 1:  LEOPOLDSKRON PALACE

This should look familiar! While, as I mentioned, you can't go in the actual backyard where the movie was filmed unless you're staying on the property, this tour will allow you to enjoy the spectacular view during a photo stop at Lake Leopoldskron mirroring the palace, where the famous boating scene was filmed. From there, you can see the Captain´s backyard and private palace gardens.

STOP 2: HELLBRUNN PALACE, GAZEBO

Remember the song "16 going on 17" scene as well as the kissing scene of Maria and Baron von Trapp? The second stop of this tour takes you to the original gazebo which was given to the city of Salzburg and relocated to the gardens of Hellbrunn Palace. 

STOP 3: NONNBERG ABBEY

The next stop is passing by the Nonnberg Abbey, which is still an active women’s convent today. Here, the "real" Maria was a novice and also got married to Baron von Trapp. The Abbey does not allow visits within its walls, so you don't actually get off the bus here, but you are welcome to walk up to the front gate of their Gothic Church or to visit a church service after the tour.

STOP 4: SALZBURG LAKE DISTRICT AREA - ST. GILGEN

After touring the film-locations within the town of Salzburg, you will hop back on the bus and head for the Lake District, passing Lake Fuschl and Lake Wolfgang, where panorama shots and scenes of the picnic were filmed. The view down on to St. Gilgen and Lake Wolfgang make for an excellent photo stop!

STOP 5: MONDSEE WEDDING CHAPEL

After some time in the bus, you'll arrive in Mondsee to the famous church where the wedding of Maria and Baron von Trapp was filmed in the movie. Afterwards there is time to explore this little picturesque town on your own (I recommend getting an apfelstrudel!) 

STOP 6: MIRABELL GARDENS

The tour ends in the beautiful Mirabell Gardens where the song "Do-Re-Mi" was filmed. After or before joining the tour, you can explore the gardens on your own where you'll find the Pegasus Fountain as well as the Do-Re-Mi steps from the film (watch the video below from 0:59 - 1:53 to refresh your memory!) 

This was certainly one of the more touristy things I've ever done, but MAN was it so fun! This was hands down the highlight of our trip and I can't recommend it enough to anyone who loves The Sound of Music. Still not convinced? Here's a little video with more information about the tour to help you with your decision. 

MOZART'S BIRTHPLACE

W. A. Mozart was born in 1756 in the “Hagenauer Haus” at No. 9 Getreidegasse in Salzburg. Today, Mozart’s Birthplace is one of the most visited museums in Austria and is an absolute highlight, above all for Mozart fans. Even if you don't tour the inside, you must at least walk by and snap a photo while exploring the old town. 

WATCH THE SUNRISE AT MUSEUM DER MODERNE SALZBURG  

Haley was determined to wake up early for this sunrise shot over the city, and I'm so glad she was! We went to the Museum der Moderne Salzburg, which our Sound of Music tour guide told us was an iconic spot overlooking the city during the "Do-Re-Mi" scene. While the museum isn't open at sunrise, you can still take the elevator to the top (which you have to pay cash, roughly €6 per person) for incredible panoramic views. Watching the sun come up over the mountains and hearing the bell towers chime was seriously beautiful and an unforgettable moment from our trip. I highly recommend doing the same if you're up for an early morning! Remember: sunrise time varies throughout the year so be sure to check the specific details of when you're visiting!

EAT

Salzburg has loads of iconic traditional fare you must try while visiting. Some of the favorites? 

SCHNITZEL:

A wiener-schnitzel is arguably the epitome of Austrian cuisine. It’s essentially a large breaded and fried piece of veal. Contrary to popular belief (or at least Julie Andrews), it's not served with noodles, but instead with a lemon wedge, parsley potatoes and some cranberry. We ordered this dish at a recommendation I received from a friend:  

St. Peter Stiftskulinarium

Stiftskeller St. Peter is a restaurant within the walls of St Peter's Abbey, Salzburg, Austria. It is claimed to be the oldest inn in Central Europe (dating back to 803 AD) because of a mention of it in the Carmina anthology by the English scholar Alcuin of York. Regardless of the history, it was the dreamiest little spot you can imagine and offered fine dining options of authentic Austrian food. While they do offer Mozart Dinner Concerts, we opted for dinner in their standard dining room (which is in a cozy cave setting, complete with candles lit). It's a popular spot so be sure to make a booking in advance!

 

SALZBURGER NOCKERL

Our friends at Visit Salzburg told us from the very start of our trip that we had to try a Salzburger Nockerel: a sweet soufflé served as a dessert specific to this city to represent the snow-capped mountains surrounding Salzburg.There's a legend that says the famous Salzburg prince archbishop of Raitenau loved his mistress Salome mostly because she could make a mean (and fluffy) Salzburger Nockerl. It's quite tasty (although it does take some time to prepare so be sure to order it before you're done with your main course or you'll be waiting a while!) We were told that the best in town can be found at: 

Restaurant S’Nockerl im Elefant

Restaurant S'nockerl, located in the Elefant Hotel, is just a stone's throw from Mozart's birthplace in Salzburg's city center. They offer traditional Austrian food and a cozy atmosphere (and again, a delicious Salzburger Nockerl!) Again, I'd recommend making a booking in advance to secure a table. 

Some other food you must try? 

• STRUDEL: These tasty deserts are filled layered pastries that come in many forms: cherry strudels, nut strudels, plum strudels, etc. However, while in Austria, I'd go for an apple or cheese strudel!

• SACHER-TORTE: See my statements above where I speak to Hotel Sacher Salzburg, but this famous cake is a must try while visiting!

• PRETZEL BREAD: You can see from my photos above that pretzel bread is sold at stalls in the streets of the old town, but it's not something to miss! This load of carby-goodness will only cost you roughly €3 and comes in loads of different flavors (I suggest the cheese and garlic!)

While everything above made our time in Salzburg so wonderful, what really made it memorable was the people we met. On our last night, we met up with some friends we made on the Sound of Music tour for a drink and closed the pub down. Two of them were brothers from Melbourne and the other from Ireland. Throw in us two Americans and we had a loud, lively bunch exchanging travel stories and becoming fast friends late into the night.  Before they got to the pub to meet us, we befriended a local tour guide (originally from Germany) on a date with her boyfriend at the table across from us. They shared all their favorite bits about life in Salzburg and gave us some good recos for villages to visit when we went on to Germany (our next destination). We swapped social media information with all our new friends and still keep up with each others lives, which is something I try to do everywhere I go. It may seem odd to keep in touch with so many people you just met, but I'm continually surprised by how easy it is to connect with a complete stranger when you both share a common love for travel.  It's honestly the coolest feeling to keep making friends in different corners all around the world, and some of my favorite stories have been when I re-connect with these people on different trips in new destinations. So whenever I find myself in Melbourne or Dublin or back in Salzburg, I can't wait to get back in touch with my new friends I made on this trip!

All in all, Salzburg is a magical place that feels like a fairytale and I hope everyone gets the chance to visit. Still have questions about planning your trip? Let me know in the comments below!

Thanks as always for stopping by, and stay tuned for more travel guides and other travel-related stories soon to come!

xx

Whitney

Chicago Favorites

It’s no secret that Chicago has been a significant destination for me this past year, and I’ve been getting a lot of questions about it lately. In addition to seeking travel recommendations from those of you who know I moved here last fall (after many failed attempts to get to London), there have also been a lot of you wondering why I haven’t been there in a while now. 

I’ll address both of those questions in this post, but let’s start with the travel recommendations first.

I put a Chicago Travel Guide together a couple years ago prior to ever living in the Windy City. While I still stand by all those recommendations, I felt it was only necessary to do a “deeper dive” into the places that are my absolute favorites now that I know the city significantly better. So no matter what you’re looking to do while visiting Chicago, I’m confident this post pretty much has you covered in terms of any recommendations you might be looking for:

 

 

FAVORITE BOUTIQUE HOTEL: AMBASSADOR HOTEL

I first came to Ambassador Hotel for a drink at their swanky bar (now Booth One) and I fell in love with the posh, minimalist ambiance of the entire property. So when the time came to plan a little staycation when my friend Sarah came to visit, Ambassador immediately came to mind. I absolutely loved so many things about staying here. For starters, their Gold Coast location is just blocks from Lake Michigan (which means incredible views) and is a short walk to The Magnificent Mile. Rooms are priced very competitively, especially for how nice of a hotel it is. And most of all,  I loved having Booth One (pictured below) as our home base bar- it's one of the most beautiful places to grab a drink in my opinion!

 

 

FAVORITE BRUNCH : HAMPTON SOCIAL

Call me basic, but The Hampton Social is a brunch-goer’s dream. This nautical hotspot evokes everything there is to love about East Coast summers. In addition to the swoon-worthy decor, they have fantastic coastal fare, delicious and eclectic menu items (try the Fried Chicken and Doughnuts!) and refreshing cocktails to leave you utterly delighted.  This place is popular, so making a booking in advance is recommended. 

FAVORITE BREAKFAST: BEATRIX

There’s no better way to start your day than with breakfast, and there’s no better way to start your breakfast than with a beverage! Beatrix has an extensive list of beverages, everything from Bulletproof coffee to matcha to fresh juices to cocktails and even an extensive wine list (they obviously are open for other meals besides breakfast- although no shame in ordering any drink any time of day!) Beatrix has multiple locations in the city (clearly a favorite among Chicagoans) and is a top-notch American eatery. The menu is thoughtfully curated, the ambiance is enjoyable and I’ve always left wanting to come back straight away. Again- a popular spot so a booking in advance is suggested. 

FAVORITE ROOFTOP: CINDY'S

Cindy's has been a long-time favorite of mine in Chicago, and for good reason. This public rooftop (part of Chicago Athletic Hotel) offers stunning views of Lake Michigan, Millennium Park and the Chicago Art Institute. It has floor to ceiling windows (and actually... the ceiling is glass too) so the place is bright and cheery and flooding with natural light. Aside from the spectacular ambiance, the food is out of this world (but be warned, portion sizes are intended for sharing- so come hungry!)

FAVORITE COFFE SHOP: MAISON MARCEL

I fell in love with everything about Maison Marcel, a quaint French boulangerie + patisserie in Chicago’s Lake View neighborhood. It’s European bohemian interior boasts white-washed exposed brick, beautifully detailed wicker chairs and freshly cut baby’ breath on every table. They have a pretty extensive menu (although I always seemed to opt for an almond croissant and cappuccino) and even a juice bar. There is wi-fi and plenty of seating, so regardless of if you’re popping in to meet a friend for coffee, having lunch or needing a remote office for the day, Maison Marcel is sure to please. 

SOME OF MY OTHER FAVORITE COFFEE SHOPS? 

PRET-A-MANGER

GASLIGHT COFFEE ROASTERS

INTELLIGENTSIA COFFEE

LA COLOMBE ROASTERS

FAVORITE PLACE TO WORK: 3 ARTS club CAFE

Inside of Restoration Hardware in Gold Coast is 3 Arts Cafe, which offers an all-day menu with breakfast, lunch and dinner options. But regardless of whether you actually sit and dine in the restaurant, you are welcome to sit on the couches in the surrounding rooms of the cafe, use the free wi-fi and even order a coffee, juice or pastry from the coffee bar. You simply won’t find a more beautiful atmosphere to work in Chicago (in my opinion). 

FAVORITE JAZZ BAR: THE GREEN MILL

I have a soft spot in my heart for jazz music and so naturally I was on a mission to find the best spot to hear it live in Chicago. My Aunt and Uncle pointed me to The Green Mill, a swinging cocktail lounge famous for being Al Capone’s favorite bar during the heyday of Prohibition. Now over 100 years old, it’s one of the most prestigious jazz clubs in the world and my favorite spot to drink martinis and listen to a variety of jazz (every thing from traditional to swing to big band). The good music typically doesn’t start until late (we went around midnight) and they stay open until 4am if you’re looking for some after hours entertainment once the bars close. 

 

FAVORITE COCKTAIL BAR: MAUDE'S LIQUOR BAR

Pretty much every spot on W. Randolph (AKA Restaurant Row) is a winner in my book, but I fell in love with Maude’s Liquor bar: an intimate French speakeasy meets bistro serving some of the best handcrafted cocktails in the city. Their menu offers an array of French classics (including food) as well as an extensively curated French wine list. Whether you stay for dinner or just pop in for a drink, you won’t want to miss this blend of sultry ambiance and sensational cocktails. 

 

 

FAVORITE LUNCH SPOT: EATALY

Eataly is obviously not exclusive to Chicago, but it's here nonetheless and thus it makes the cut on my favorites list! This "amusement park of Italian delicacies" is in the heart of downtown and quickly became a regular spot for me to pop in for lunch. They offer an array of cafes, counters and restaurants (essentially dozens of dining options in one place!) Whether you want to do your own grocery shopping to take home and cook a proper Italian meal, or sit down anytime of day to let someone else prepare it for you, Eataly has you covered. I recommend it for lunch because you'll likely be walking around the downtown area at some point if you're visiting, so it's an easy place to pop in and choose from a variety of delicious options. 

FAVORITE DINNER SPOT: GIRL & THE GOAT

Also located on Restaurant Row, Girl & the Goat opened with the goal of serving bold flavors with global influence in a fun and lively setting. They also boast the title of James Beard Award for Best Chef: Great Lakes, along with awards from Eater including: Restaurant of the year, Chef of the year, Shaker of the year... the list goes on. Whether you go for a full meal or simply drinks and appetizers, do yourself a favor and just make sure you get there when you visit Chicago-- it's hands down one of my favorite meals I've ever had!

FAVORITE DISH: PLANTAINS AT LEñA BRAVA

My friend Sarah Kate took me to Leña Brava when I first moved to Chicago and I am still talking about these plantains months later. They're wood-oven roasted with butter, thick cream, and homemade fresh cheese but they taste better than just about anything else I can think of right now (I even swiped right on a Bumble guy who was a chef here and my opening line was shamelessly "Can you make those plantains?") It's worth visiting this Restaurant Row gem simply for this menu item (although fear not: nothing else you try will disappoint!)

FAVORITE SEAFOOD SPOT: OYSTER BAH

The food at Oyster Bah blew. me. away. This casual New England seafood spot specializes in cold water Oysters, but they serve way more than just that. Some of my absolute favorite thing we tried were the macaroni and cheese and the coconut cake, but I mean it when I say that everything we had was delicious. The atmosphere is cozy and nautical, the staff is wonderful and on a more important note, the drinks are boozy and delicious!

FAVORITE ITALIAN FOOD: SPACCA NAPOLI

Both my well-traveled family and my friend Domenico (who is from Napoli) have taken me to Spacca Napoli, so that alone should tell you something! In all seriousness, this Ravenswood pizzeria serves classic Neapolitan pies that will bring tears to your eyes it all tastes so good. It may not be deep dish (see the bottom of my list for my favorite Chicago-style pies!) but I'd argue you'll be far from disappointed to experience Spacca Napoli. 

FAVORITE CHINESE FOOD: DUCK DUCK GOAT

If you haven't picked up by the "Goat" title, this sister restaurant of Girl & the Goat (along with Little Goat) is another hit- this time in the Chinese category. Duck Duck Goat offers globally inspired cooking sauces and spice mixes with dishes from Dim Sum to noodles to fried rice and more. My friend Rachel and I split the Dan Dan Noodles with peanut and pork and the Duck Fried Rice on a cold, snowy night and left with full, happy tummies. Per usual, it's a good idea to make a booking in advance to avoid waiting for a table. 

 

FAVORITE MARKET: CHICAGO FRENCH MARKET

This European-inspired indoor food market offers a variety of grab and go kiosks with every global food imaginable (although they definitely heavy up in the French category). The decor makes you feel like you've just transformed to Paris and it's so fun to browse around all the different stalls to see what global cuisine is available. 

FAVORITE CHAIN: LE PAIN QUOTIDIEN

Sometimes a chain restaurant ain't a bad thing, and that's certainly the case with Le Pain Quotidien, an international chain of organic bakery-restaurants originating in Belgium. There are several locations in Chicago and I often found myself cozied up by a window with a cup of coffee to do some work. It's a great spot to meet a friend for a healthy breakfast or lunch if you're looking for a cozy ambiance. 

 

 

FAVORITE SPORTS OUTING: CUBS GAME

 No surprise here, I'm sure! The Cubs are a Chicago staple and you simply must try to get to a game if you can. Wrigley is so much fun year round (not just for baseball, they also have everything from concerts to Christmas markets here!) Even if you can't make it to a game, be sure to explore the area to see the stadium and imagine what all the excitement must be like on a game day. 

Fun Fact: The "W" flag you'll often see flying originated before the era of smartphones when people were taking the train home and wanted to know the result of the Cubs game. If they won, a W flag would be flying over Wrigley. 

 

FAVORITE SHOW TO SEE: HAMILTON

I've had the privilege of seeing this INCREDIBLE show twice now, once in London and for the first time here in Chicago. It truly is worth all the hype it's received and (in my opinion) is even better than the buzz you've heard. While you can enter the daily lottery for your chance to win $10 tickets, I'd advise against that tactic if you really want to see the show (it took me 3+ months of entering every single day before I finally won). It's one of the few cities (along with New York, LA and London) where you can see this Tony award winning sensation and it's sure to be the highlight of your trip if you do!

FAVORITE TOURIST SPOT: MILLENNIUM PARK

Paris has the Eiffel Tower. London has Big Ben. Chicago has "The Bean." Millennium Park was originally intended to celebrate the third millennium and is a collection of state-of-the-art architecture, and "Cloud Gate" (aka The Bean) is the crown jewel. You're sure to find tourists crowded around this art installation taking their photo in the reflection, but for whatever reason this attraction has a soft spot in my heart. Even if touristy bits aren't your thing, it's worth walking around this park (you can avoid Cloud Gate if you really must) to see all the architectural variety and well manicured landscaping. 

FAVORITE THING TO DO: CHICAGO RIVERWALK 

While this is certainly more enjoyable in the warmer months, strolling along the Chicago river is one of my favorite things to do in the city. This pedestrian walkway along the waterfront gives you a front row to some of the best architecture in the city and offers plenty of restaurants and bars to stop along the way for a drink.

FAVORITE MUSEUM: CHICAGO ART INSTITUTE

The Art Institute of Chicago is one of the oldest and largest art collections in the United States. It's home to some of the best-known works in America including: Edward Hopper's Nighthawks and Grant Wood's American Gothic. Even if you're not a huge art buff, there are so many fascinating and recognizable pieces in here that anyone can enjoy. I hadn't been since I was a kid and on my most recent trip this winter I was blown away by how impressive it was. If you have the time, I can't recommend it enough (and be sure to have lunch at Terzo Piano while you're there for beautiful views and delicious food!

OTHER FAVORITES TO NOTE: 

FAVORITE DEEP DISH PIZZA: LOU MALNATI'S

FAVORITE DINER: AU CHEVAL

FAVORITE BURGER: CHOP SHOP

FAVORITE GASTROPUB: PUBLICAN ANKER

FAVORITE HEALTHY LUNCH: SWEETGREEN

FAVORITE JUICE BAR: LEFT COAST

FAVORITE CHEESE PLATE: BAR PASTORAL

FAVORITE SPEAKEASY: THE VIOLET HOUR

FAVORITE WINE BAR: POPS FOR CHAMPAGNE

FAVORITE NON-CHICAGO RESTAURANT: THE KITCHEN

FAVORITE YOGA STUDIO: COREPOWER

FAVORITE SPIN STUDIO: FLYWHEEL

FAVORITE SPA/ NAIL SALON: COWSHED

I'm confident there's other favorites that I'm failing to mention, but there's still another half of this blog post that I need to write! So moving onto the "real talk" about why I haven't been back since I came home to Nashville for Christmas. For starters, I took a two week trip to London and Eastern/Central Europe for New Year's, so that carried me into the middle of January. But for the past couple weeks? I've been staying put in Nashville instead of heading back to Chicago. Why, you ask? Pour yourself a glass of wine and settle in for a minute. 

It’s really difficult for me to properly articulate all of this, because the past few months have been nothing short of an emotional rollercoaster. I’d love to deliver a nice and tidy  summary of everything that’s been going on in my brain, but truth be told there’s nothing too simple about it. In an effort to keep things as succinct as possible, I’ll start with this: while I was falling more and more in love with Chicago everyday, there was also voice deep inside me continuing to grow louder and louder, telling me it wasn’t time to give up on London just yet.

As I started building this new life in Chicago: making friends, dating different guys, discovering new neighborhoods that I could easily call home, it was so easy to imagine the kind of life I could see myself living if I stayed— and it was a really, really great one. I knew this said life could bring me a lot of joy and challenge me in new and exciting ways I was currently craving. But the longer I sat with that picture, I could also begin to see myself beyond the short term giddiness: being settled into a new life that was great, but not quite the one I felt peace about. Deep down, I knew moving forward with Chicago meant I'd be settling on what was easier to achieve or prolonging the work I needed to do if I ever wanted to get to London. Because at the end of the day, building a great life in Chicago will still require my time and energy, and the more of that I put forth here, the less of it I have to dedicate to getting there. 

I honestly kind of wish that voice in my gut wasn’t so loud. I love Chicago so much and it was a really emotional departure to say the least. I’ve been mourning the absence of the big city energy it gave me, as well as countless other details about it I really grew to love. And if all the doors to London slam in my face and my immigration lawyer tells me I’ll absolutely never be able to live there, I will scurry back to Chicago faster than you can blink. But as long as I know there’s hope for London (even if that “hope” currently has me feeling like I’m standing at the base of Everest) I feel a burning conviction to pursue it whole-heartedly with everything that I have in me. So until something changes, be it the circumstances that are keeping me from getting a visa, or the desire itself somehow disappears, I’m all in. 

I could go into a lot more detail, but the truth is none of it would lead to anything conclusive about what comes next. There’s just a lot of uncertainty ahead. For now, I’m back in Nashville where I can easily coast, which gives me more energy to put my head down and work tenaciously (which I’ve already been doing the past few weeks). I’m more committed than ever to work on not only making the harder, more disciplined choices that will get me closer to my goals (even if they take significantly longer than I’d like them to). 

I’m also more committed than ever to hold on tightly to the greatest takeaway I learned during my time in Chicago: to enjoy the journey. 

If I eventually do get to London I can honestly say I'll be so thankful that it didn’t happen on my original timeline. Because if it had? Chicago wouldn’t have been a chapter in my story. This past season has enriched my life in more ways than I can count, and I almost missed it because I was so stubborn and set in my ways, wishing things were different. 

We often think that happiness will arrive when we finally get what we want and our circumstances change. But at the risk of sounding like a terrible cliché, it’s often the circumstances we’re cursing that God is using to change us. And if our fists are clenched and our knuckles are white because we're so set on finally "arriving" we're going to miss out on countless opportunities to see goodness along the way. 

The truth is, I don’t actually know if this immigration strategy will even work or if I’ll ever successfully move to London like I’ve hoped to for so long now. I don’t know if I’ll end up right back in Chicago. In fact, I could end up living a totally different life than I imagine altogether, somewhere that’s not even on my radar.  But I know with certainty that living authentically and honoring my dream right now is transforming me in the process, and that alone is reason enough to stay on course. Because "where I'm headed" is actually much less about my geographic position and more about  learning to surrender to the (often painful) process of becoming.

So that’s the latest in my world. To be completely honest, it’s somewhat painful for my pride to pour out my personal details of endless uncertainty. I love sharing the fun stuff like booking a one way ticket to Europe, but this? Not so much. In fact, I debated sharing any of this at all. But it’s important to me to share my whole story, not just the pretty side of things. I hope that it serves as a reminder that our dreams aren’t merely condensed to the 2 hour timelines we watch play out in a film. Real life transformation that we hope for usually takes months and years of hard work— but I truly believe it’s worth fighting for. So fight for it I will. 

How do you eat an elephant, they say? One bite at a time. 

Emerald Lake, Lake Louise and Banff Travel Guide

A couple months ago, I ventured to Canada for the first time with Haley, one of my best friends. We've both done a ton of international travel over the years (she's who I lived in London with) but embarrassingly enough, neither of us had ever been to our most neighboring country!  We were both really craving a winter wonderland and Lake Louise had always been on both of our travel bucket lists, so we decided to plan a trip around that destination. We discovered it would be easiest to meet in Calgary (Haley was coming from Jacksonville and I was coming from Chicago) so we flew in and grabbed an Airbnb near the airport our first night (we didn't land until late!) You can find great flight deals throughout the year to YYC through sites like Skyscanner or subscriptions like Scott's Cheap Flights, so be sure to keep your eyes peeled if you know this is a trip you want to take.

There is also so much to do around Lake Louise so we decided to rent a car (with winter tires!) so we could have more control of what we saw and visit some remote "off the beaten path" sights. Our first stop? Emerald Lake Lodge. 

EMERALD LAKE LODGE

This cozy lodge is tucked away in Yoho National Park (about 2.5 hours from YYC) and is the epitome of magical.  It set the bar so high for the rest of our trip because right off the bat we felt like we were living in a whimsical snow globe! There was fresh powder everywhere and barely any people around. The lodge itself offers century-old fireplaces and an oak bar salvaged from the 1890's. The rooms are housed in separate cozy cabins while the reception and dining areas are together in a separate lodge (this is the only area of the property that has wi-fi). Haley and I had some work to do when we arrived, so we cozied up by the window in the lodge to watch the snow fall, eat some lunch and do some work. That slowly turned into spending our entire afternoon and evening chatting with the staff, ordering multiple rounds of drinks and becoming buddies with them by the fireplace until finally, we braved the cold (and large amounts of snowfall that had accrued) to venture back to our cabin. It truly looked like a winter wonderland with the twinkling lights reflecting on the snow- no photo could properly do it justice. 

The next morning we ventured back to the main lodge for breakfast (after having a slow cozy morning in our cabin drinking coffee, watching the sunrise and spending some quiet time with God). After an entire evening of snow, the property looked even more beautiful than it did the night before. We walked around the winter wonderland to take it all in (and naturally, take some photos).

I would highly recommend visiting this property for anyone looking for a place to retreat and reset. Don't plan on being very connected to the outside world (as I mentioned, service and wi-fi are spotty) but instead, bring a great book to read and let yourself unplug a little. It really set the tone for the rest of our trip to be slow, restful and reflective. I definitely want to return to this cozy cabin in the future!

From Emerald Lake Lodge, we hopped in the car and drove just under 40 minutes to our next destination:

 FAIRMONT CHATEAU LAKE LOUISE

Staying at Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise has been a long time dream of mine and I was so thrilled to finally see it for myself! For starters, there is hands down no better place to stay in Lake Louise (this is the only property right on the lake!) Haley and I felt a little silly to realize the lake would already be frozen by the time we arrived (we had long pictured the piercing blue waters that Lake Louise is famous for) but we both agreed once we got there that we were so glad to experience it in the winter. There was a beautiful magic so different than what we've previously seen in photos and we were so thankful for the unique experience (and now we have reason to come back in the summer!) 

The property itself is gorgeous and offers plenty to do no matter what time of year you visit. There was tons of ski festivities happening nearby (although we opted to stick to the on-site dining and hiking around the property).

The concierge team was so helpful in pointing us to the overlook path we wanted to hike (and even loaned us grips to strap to our boots so we wouldn't slip!) They were also available to point you to any other activities you may want to book (snowmobiling, skiing- whatever your heart desires!) 

For food, we spent a lot of time in the Lakeview Lounge, which offers incredible views overlooking the lake (along with delicious food!) We both commented how lovely everyone on the staff was. Not only were they charming and hospitable, but they were people from all over the world. We befriended our server from France the first afternoon we spent there and the next night we became fast friends with our Irish bartender. We may have been in Canada, but I loved sharing conversation with fascinating people from all over the world! We also enjoyed a delicious breakfast (also with beautiful views) at Poppy Brasserie one morning and an incredible fondue dinner at Wallister Stube (the fine dining restaurant) one evening. We were so impressed with all of the dining options at the hotel-we never left the property for any meal!

I would highly, highly recommend staying here for anyone who has ever dreamed of seeing Lake Louise. As I previously mentioned, there's just no better option than being right next to it (plus the property is stunning, the food is delicious and the staff couldn't have been more wonderful). 

After an amazing two nights at Fairmont Lake Louise, we drove a quick half-hour into the town of Banff to stay at another amazing Fairmont property: 

FAIRMONT BANFF SPRINGS

Located right in the heart of Banff National Park, Fairmont Banff Springs hotel is known as Canada's "Castle in the Rockies." It's been in business for over 125 years and is truly a once in a lifetime experience, no matter what time of year you visit! While Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise was great for the proximity to Lake Louise, Fairmont Banff Springs is ideal for those wanting to be close to the town of Banff. Staying here put us close to dozens of wonderful restaurants (the property alone has dozens and the town has even more!) Some of the ones we experienced included: 

AT FAIRMONT BANFF SPRINGS:

Rundle Lounge: A beautiful place to relax and enjoy Banff's best mountain views. We loved sitting here for drinks one afternoon to take in the scenery around us. 

STOCK Food & Drink: We popped in here for coffee + snacks a few times, but our most memorable treat was hands down the dressed hot chocolate. 

IN THE TOWN OF BANFF:

The Maple Leaf: We loved coming here for drinks and charcuterie (Canada has some seriously incredible meat so this was a great place to sample their variety). It had such a cozy ambiance and the staff was fantastic!

Saltlik: We had an amazing dinner here one night (with a cozy lodge-style ambiance). Both of us loved our meals and our server was wonderful too. 

I would highly recommend staying at Fairmont Banff Springs for anyone wanting to spend some time in the heart of this adorable mountain town. It was a totally different experience than Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise but I really enjoyed both experiences, both properties and all of the staff at both properties that we worked with. 

I was really happy with the way that Haley and I spaced out our time in this region of Canada, so I'd definitely recommend replicating our same itinerary. Starting at Emerald Lake Lodge and slowly working our way back toward Calgary (stopping at Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise and ending at Fairmont Banff Springs) made for a shorter drive back to YYC and let us see a variety of isolated nature but also a bustling little mountain town. The combination gave us so much beauty to see and a variety of things to do. Some general things to know before you plan a trip of your own? 

• Be mindful of what kind of experience you want to have. If you prefer activities like hiking or water sports, aim to visit in the summer months. If you want to enjoy a winter wonderland with plenty of snow, aim for the winter. Lake Louise is typically frozen over starting as early as November and doesn't usually start to thaw until June.

• Factor in how much time you desire to spend in each place. Haley and I had 6 days in this region but it did feel like the time flew by (we spent a fair amount of time getting to and from each destination- especially with Calgary on the front and back end) so you might want to allow more time if you want to really do all of these places justice.

• Remember the exchange rate. Prices may seem astronomical if you're visiting from the US, but the conversion actually works in our favor. You'll end up spending less than what you actually think you are, but regardless it's a good idea to familiarize yourself with the exchange rate at the time you're traveling.

• Stick to the speed limit. While driving through the parks there were times it was completely empty and it felt like we were traveling at a normal pace. Unfortunately, we were stopped for speeding (and ticketed- UGH!) so be sure you don't make the same mistake that we did!

Any other questions you have about planning a trip to the Canadian Rockies? Let me know in the comments below!

Thanks so much to Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise and to Fairmont Banff Springs for providing us with an incredible stay at both of your properties! We absolutely loved our time here and hope to be back in the future!

xx

Whitney