Travel

A Weekend in NYC with Expedia

a weekend in NYC

 

Whether you refer to it as The City That Never Sleeps, The Big Apple, Empire City or another famous name, there’s no question that New York City has something for every kind of traveler. This destination easily has more restaurants, galleries, rooftop bars, museums and culture all in once condensed place than most destinations around the globe. This is especially true now that the surrounding boroughs seem to be in the spotlight as often as Manhattan! So let’s all take a deep breath and accept the reality that one simply cannot see and do it all in one (perhaps even several) visit(s).  <sigh> 

If that was a hard pill to swallow, rest assured: no matter what you choose to fill your itinerary with in New York, chances are it will be a great trip. I recently partnered with Expedia.ca to create my own itinerary and put together a “Weekend in New York” recommendation list. As I was planning, I made a conscious effort to strategically do as much as I could in our four short days. And again, while I knew I couldn't cover everything there is to do in this city, I aimed to sample a little taste of the things I love the most: global influence, epicurean highlights, culture, unique experiences and embracing the local, iconic landmarks. 

Greenwich Village

Greenwich Village

boucherie greenwich village nyc

 

But before I jump to those recommendations, here are a few things you should know first about visiting NYC:  

 

Downtown is Quite Literally, Downtown:

Often while visiting a city, we refer to downtown as a commercial center where all the action is. In New York, however, it means in a southern direction (as opposed to uptown in the north or midtown in-between the two.) This is important to note while following directions (especially on the Subway, while most trains are marked “uptown” or “downtown.”  

 

Sidewalk Etiquette: 

Given the condensed nature of New York, it’s an extremely walkable city. With that said, the plethora of pedestrians means it’s imperative to make an effort to have some decent sidewalk etiquette. Always aim to keep to the right. Don’t be a sudden stopper (you wouldn’t put your car in park suddenly on the interstate without pulling over first, would you?) If you’re with friends, don’t take up the entire sidewalk (no more than two people next to each other at a time is a safe rule of thumb). Simply put: make an effort to be mindful that while you may be enjoying a holiday away, there are loads of New Yorkers trying to get on with their daily life in an orchestrated  manner (ideally, without dodging tourists who are being inconsiderate or oblivious).   

 

new york subway

Subway, Yellow Cabs + Ubers: 

While walking will take you far (we averaged 11 miles a day!) to see all that you should, you’ll inevitably need to give your legs a break to get around. NYC has tons of transportation options... so how do you choose? I always recommend the Citymapper app, which shows you all options to get from point A to B (then you can decide if you’re more concerned with time, convenience or money). Chances are, you’ll be taking the Subway, an Uber or a Yellow Cab. The Subway is fairly easy to navigate (although I personally found it to be a bit more confusing than metro systems in cities like London, Chicago or Paris— I think because the lines are simply a letter or number which is less memorable to me than a word/name). It’s only $2.75 per ride and to avoid buying a ticket every time, I’d suggest putting $10 or $20 on a card at a time if you plan on riding multiple times throughout your stay. Should you ever call an Uber or other ride share, always be sure you’re requesting the correct pick up location (and that you get in the right car— check the license plates!)  And if you decide to go for a ride in a famous yellow cab, look for ones that have the numbers on their roof illuminated (if they’re turned off, someone is in it). Oh! And be conscious not to upstream someone while hailing your own (essentially, this is “cutting" or standing a bit farther in front of someone who was already trying to hail a cab.) 

 

Right, I think that covers enough of the basics, so let’s dive into some of the details from our itinerary.  

WHERE WE STAYED: 

As I previously mentioned, Manhattan is no longer the favorite child of the NYC boroughs the way it once was. While I’ve still only been to New York 4 times now, 3 out of those 4 trips, I’ve stayed in Williamsburg- an easy train stop or two away from the Lower East Side. When I first visited, this trendy Brooklyn neighborhood seemed to be predominately occupied by hipsters with man-buns and artisanal food shops peppered amongst gritty bodegas. As any gentrification process seems to play out, today this area is home to world-class restaurants, swanky hotels and even a Whole Foods. While it’s not exactly a “hidden” gem anymore, this borough is brimming with fantastic food, drink, shopping and culture— all with an extra bit of breathing room you don’t quite get in Manhattan.  

I’ve stayed with friends every time I’ve visited, however there are plenty of Airbnb options to choose from. And if you fancy a proper hotel? The Wythe is a 117 year old factory building turned boutique hotel and offers panoramic views of the city.  Regardless of where you choose to rest your head, I love the convenience of Williamsburg to both Manhattan, as well as neighboring areas of Brooklyn. 

 

WHERE WE ATE:

We squeezed a lot of great food into a few short days. Here are some of those highlights: 

MR. PURPLE

While asking some friends who are NYC locals what their favorite rooftop bar was, I kept hearing “Mr. Purple.” Located on the 15th floor of Hotel Indigo LES, this hotspot " captures the vibrant and artistic spirit of the Lower East Side.” With incredible views of both the Empire State Building and One World Trade, this is exactly where you want to be on a beautiful day in the city. 

The menu has iconic culinary staples and features locally sourced ingredients (we loved their burrata, tuna tartar and salt & pepper fries). To drink, they offer an extensive list of beer, wine and both classic and specialty cocktails (I recommend their signature “Mr. Purple” with Casamigos respasado tequila, cranberry liqueur, allspice dram, apple and lemon).  

 

 

CLAUDETTE

I’m always looking for globally-inspired cuisine, so when a reader recommended Claudette: a Provençal eatery in the heart of Greenwich Village, I was sold immediately. Claudette offers Mediterranean-accented French dishes that are inspired by the cooking and teachings of the Chef’s Tunisian grandmother. The space is bright, airy, inviting and is the quintessential environment you’d envision sipping rosé for an afternoon lunch with girlfriends. We shared the lamb hefty with za’atar yogurt, and the chicken & kohlrabi salad with mint, chili, scallion and a walnut-truffle emulsion. 

 

 

aldea portuguese restaurant

ALDEA

To further my quest for global cuisine, I opted for dinner at Aldea: a Portuguese eatery emphasizing Iberian Coast flavors in a chic space in the Flatiron District (and newly boasting a Michelin star). Chef George Mendes made us feel right at home sitting at the chef’s table, which is the bar nestled against the kitchen where you can watch all the magic happen. We sampled a variety of items off the dinner menu to enjoy tasting highlights like the Bacalhau À Brás (farm egg and salt cod custard with crispy potato and black olive) and the Morel Mushrooms. My favorite main was the Arroz de Pato with duck confit, chouriço, orange and duck cracklins. Yet my favorite part of the meal was when Chef Mendes wowed us with his decadent Pasteis de Nata: a traditional Portuguese egg custard tart that was just as good as the ones I had in Lisbon (possibly even better). Every wine pairing was spot on and they did a beautiful job of bringing Portuguese culture to life in the heart of New York City.  

 

 

kingside brunch nyc

KINGSIDE

Located on the street level of Viceroy Central Park, Kingside offers a swanky diner vibe with fresh, locally-sourced ingredients and hand-crafted cocktails. We came here for brunch one afternoon and ate like absolute Queens! Start with a small plate like the cauliflower croquettes or  an NY classic: smoked salmon & a bagel. If you’re in the mood for something sweet, you can’t miss their bubble waffles with caramelized bananas, vanilla gelato, walnuts and butterscotch. Craving something a bit more savory? The lobster scramble and avocado toast are both incredible. But my favorite item on the menu? Oddly enough, the kale salad (it comes with brussels sprouts, pistachio and pear— but the ingredient that really stood out was the fresh mint. It was one of the best things I ate all weekend! This was the perfect spot to pop in for brunch before we went around the corner to Central Park to walk it all off.  

 

 

vandal nyc brunch

VANDAL

Tao venues are typically known for their nightclubs, yet VANDAL is broadening that stereotype a bit with their art-filled space on the Bowery in the Lower East Side. Exploding with pop art, murals and interesting creations at every turn, there is no lack of excitement for your eyes (or your tastebuds) at this spot. We loved coming for brunch and sampling a variety of their globally-inspired menu items (my favorites were the chilaquiles and the vegan donuts). They also offer a range of fresh pressed juices if you’re feeling healthy (but don’t worry, you have the option to add the Ketel One Botanical vodka of your choice). 

 

 

THE WOODSTOCK

It would be a sin to go to New York without having pizza, but I wanted to find a spot that puts a fresh spin on the city staple. Enter The Woodstock: a low-key yet vibrant 1960s-inspired cocktail and pizza bar in the Meatpacking District. Art lovers will swoon over the original Salvador Dali paintings adorning the restaurant’s walls and adding a bit of surrealism to their trendy buzzing space. There aren’t enough adequate words in the English-language to properly pay homage to the Gloria pizza (a Primo Tartufo with mozzarella, smoked scamorza, wild mushrooms, rosemary, pine nuts and porcini truffle crema). But while the 60s decor, Dali paintings and mouth-watering pizzas are all incredible, possibly the most memorable aspect of this hotspot is the cocktail menu. Each concoction is served in a unique glass, ranging from your standard Collins or High Ball, all the way to a lightbulb (which the “Light My Fire” is served in). And while one may think the luxe art collection would skyrocket food/drink prices, however all premium cocktails are merely $10 and pizzas are $15 (which is practically robbery for NYC prices). 

 

 

 

 

TRAIF

“Remind me how much of a vegetarian you are these days?” my cousin texted me as we were trying to decide where to meet for dinner my final evening in the city. I’m thankful my answer was 0% so I could experience Traif: a Williamsburg restaurant flaunting all things unkosher. Traif celebrates pork, shellfish and globally-inspired food (my favorites were the strawberry-cinnamon glazed Berkshire baby back ribs and the seared foie gras). While the neighborhood’s nearby community of Hasidic Jews likely won’t be flocking to Traif anytime soon, meanwhile, the orthodox are busy ordering another "Rude Little Pig”: a signature cocktail with lapsing-infused tequila, orange liqueur, pomegranate and, of course, a bacon rim.  

 

 

WHERE WE DRANK:

Stomach too full for a meal, but looking for a spot to grab a drink? Here are some of my favorite watering-holes where we gave our legs a break from walking.  

 

THE DJANGO

This was hands down one of my favorite places we found in New York. Located in the basement of the Roxy Hotel, The Django is a cavelike, Paris-inspired jazz venue and cocktail bar. We walked in last minute, but I would recommend calling in advance if you go on a Saturday night to reserve a table (it was jam-packed, but still so fun!) With big-band jazz music filling the room and people of all ages and background swing dancing with no regard for what time it was, it felt like we transformed back in time (or perhaps were on set for the Woody Allen film “Midnight in Paris.”) Whatever you do, give this place a spot on your itinerary - you won’t regret it.  

 

 

SANTINA

This award winning coastal Italian restaurant is located directly under the High Line, yet it boasts vibrant blue and orange umbrellas that leave you feeling like you’re in Positano. Pop in for an Aperol spritz on the patio after you finish strolling the High Line.  

 

 

le bain at the standard rooftop

LE BAIN- ROOFTOP AT THE STANDARD

On a sunny Saturday in the summer, be sure to arrive to The Standard right at 4pm to beat the lines and grab a spot at Le Bain. This rooftop bar boasts incredible views of the Hudson and Manhattan skyline and offers an energetic atmosphere, complete with delicious cocktails.  

 

P.J. CLARKE’S

Pop into their lower-Manhattan location a sunny Friday afternoon in the summer and you’re sure to rub elbows with Financial District employees who are loosening their ties for the weekend. P.J. Clarke’s has been serving up frosty drinks (their frosé is truly special) since 1884 and you can’t beat the buzzing energy and waterfront views this place has to offer (a perfect place to grab a drink before the Willy Wall).  

 

LLAMA INN

This Williamsburg Peruvian eatery offers a stunning atmosphere, but more importantly, delicious pisco sours (a traditional cocktail of Peruvian origin). I came here after dinner at Traif to meet friends and in addition to our cocktails, we tried one of the most memorable desserts I’ve had in a long time: Palo Santo flavored ice cream.  

 

 

WHAT WE DID: 

 

will wall cocktails

WILLY WALL

I couldn’t believe how many locals I spoke with who had never visited the Willy Wall (or more formally known as “The Honorable William Wall”). It was easily one of the coolest things we did in the city! Whether you fancy watching a sailing regatta or simply taking in gorgeous views of NYC on a nice day, this floating clubhouse/bar in the Hudson belonging to Manhattan Yacht Club is somewhere you absolutely shouldn’t miss. Tickets should be reserved in advance and includes a free one-way transfer on the Liberty Landing ferry from the World Financial Center Ferry Terminal to the Warren Street Pier where you meet the Admiral’s Launch water taxi.  

 

  

dumbo nyc

DUMBO

An iconic photo spot just around the corner from the Brooklyn Bridge. Be sure to go for coffee + almond croissant at Almondine while you’re over there!  

 

 

brooklyn bridge

BROOKLYN BRIDGE

After snapping photos at DUMBO and grabbing your coffee at Almondine Bakery, it’s time to stroll across the iconic Brooklyn Bridge! You always want to walk from the Brooklyn side to the Manhattan side for the best views of the city, and if you prefer to avoid crowds I definitely recommend going early (we arrived at 9am and it still was pretty full).  

 

 

THE HIGH LINE

Formerly an above-ground railroad, the High Line is a ~1.5 mile elevate park that runs along the west side of Manhattan. Starting a few blocks from Penn Station and running down to Meatpacking, this is the perfect spot to stroll when the weather is nice (it reminds me a lot of London’s Southbank with all of the street vendors, places to sit and various view points).  

 

 

 

central park nyc

CENTRAL PARK

An obvious “must” while visiting New York. We didn’t have much time to spend here on this particular trip, but some of my favorite highlights over the years include the pond, Gapstow Bridge (with the Plaza Hotel and skyline as a backdrop), The Lake Strawberry Fields and Sheep Meadow.  

 

 

radio city music hall

ROCKAFELLER PLAZA 

With today’s plethora of tourists, this likely won’t be a spot you want to stay long. Even still, I liked starting an (early) morning here to sneak a peek of the TODAY show cast (we heard Shawn Mendez performing “In My Blood” from a distance while we were shooting some photos in the area!) and strolling along some of the famous sights like Radio City Music Hall. Get in, see what you came to see, and then move on.  

 

 

top of the rock nyc

TOP OF THE ROCK 

It’s been said that this is the best spot for views of the city and I can’t really disagree now that I’ve been (although be warned, it gets crowded). It opens at 8am and tickets should be purchased in advance to avoid a long line. I recommend going bright and early to avoid peak tourist times so you can enjoy the views with limited crowds.  

 

 

FLATIRON BUILDING  

While this building is certainly an iconic NYC landmark you shouldn’t miss, the area in general has plenty to offer. Go for an afternoon pick-me-up with a cappuccino at Eataly or some matcha at Cha-Cha-Matcha before strolling through Madison Square Park or doing some shopping.  

 

There’s a lot more I could say about our time in New York (and about other things I’ve done during other visits!) Since I can’t expand upon everything, here are a few more favorites worth mentioning:  

 

MUSEUMS + MONUMENTS

The MET

Whitney Museum of Art

World Trade Center Memorial

MoMA

 

COFFEE/TEA/SNACKS

Variety Coffee in Williamsburg

Cha Cha Matcha

Grass Roots Juicery in Williamsburg

Everyman Espresso

Devoción

Momofuku Milk Bar for Ice Cream

 

momofuku milk bar nyc

 

GLOBAL CUISINE

Dhaba Indian Cuisine 

Uncle Boon’s (Thai) 

Le Coucou (French) 

Taverna Kyclades (Greek) 

Lupa Osteria Romana (Italian) 

Manousheh (Lebanese) 

 

 

I’m always looking for great recommendations to try for the next time I visit, so if you have a spot I can’t miss tell me in the comments below! 

 

Thank you to Expedia.ca for partnering on this trip and post and to Mr. Purple, Kingside, Aldea, Woodstock and Vandal for accommodating us. All opinions are my own.  

 

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weekend in new york
WEEKEND IN NYC.jpg
blonde atlas

Stockholm Travel Guide

stockholm travel guide blonde atlas

 

Comprised of 14 islands on an extensive Baltic Sea archipelago, Stockholm has often been called "beauty on water" and serves as the capital (and most populous city) of Sweden. While it's well-preserved old town, Gamla Stan, remains one of Europe’s most historic hubs, this city is also dynamic, modern and ever-evolving. 

I had the pleasure of visiting with my friend (and photographer) Sarah last summer on behalf of Visit Stockholm. Neither of us had ever been to Scandinavia (with the exception of the few days we spent in Copenhagen prior to this trip) so we both were a little unsure as to what we could expect. Within moments of setting foot in Sweden, we immediately noticed how beautiful everything was--from the design to the natural landscape (and don't even get me started on the people!) 

Before planning a trip of your own (which I can't recommend enough) here are a few considerations to keep in mind:

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

  • LANGUAGE: Swedish, although pretty much everyone I came into contact with spoke English. As always, I recommend at least saying "thank you" in the local language- in this case: "tack" (pronounced tah-k).

  • CURRENCY: Swedish Kroner. Currently, 1 USD equals roughly 8.58 SEK. While a lot of places do accept bank cards, we did run into some issues with other places only accepting cash, so I'd advise getting some from an ATM at the airport once you arrive.

  • GRATUITY: Tipping is rare and usually reserved for great service. With that said, I always leave a little something, even if it's just rounding up to round out the SEK to an even number.

  • GETTING AROUND: Getting from Arlanda Airport to the Stockholm city center is incredibly easy thanks to the Arlanda Express. For ~ 280 SEK, this train runs non-stop from the airport to Stockholm Central Station and takes only 20 minutes (it's the most affordable and efficient option). Once you're in the city, you can quickly travel between different locations thanks to Stockholm’s safe, punctual and efficient public transport system. We honestly walked a lot (and took a few taxi's) but the options are endless. To learn more, read this page from Visit Stockholm.

Gamla Stan

Gamla Stan

Gamla Stan

Gamla Stan

 

Archipelago Tour

archipelago tour stockholm sweden

We were advised by Visit Stockholm to get familiarized with the stunning scenery of the area with a guided archipelago boat tour. As previously mentioned, Stockholm encompasses 14 islands and more than 50 bridges on an extensive Baltic Sea archipelago (which is simply a group of islands). This tour allowed us to experience the city from the water, learn about the history and be inspired by the beauty of Stockholm’s natural landscape. It was such a relaxing way to spend our afternoon (they had beverages on board and the entire trip was comprised of stunning views). 

NOTE: During the summer it is a good idea to visit the ticket booth early the same day to collect your sightseeing tour ticket. Sometimes there are a lot of visitors and some tours may be full during the high season. And be sure to pack lots of layers even if it's warm-- the wind will get you!

archipelago tour stockholm sweden
archipelago tour stockholm sweden
archipelago tour stockholm sweden
archipelago tour stockholm sweden

 

VASA MUSEUM

One of my favorite things we did in Stockholm was visiting the Vasa musuem. The Vasa is the only preserved seventeenth-century ship in the world and makes for a truly incredible story. 

The 69 meter-long warship Vasa sank after about 20 minutes into its maiden voyage in the middle of Stockholm in 1628 and was salvaged 333 years later in 1961. Because of the brackish water, so much of it was preserved (more than 95 percent of the ship is original). For nearly half a century the ship has been slowly, deliberately and painstakingly restored to a state approaching its original glory. The three masts on the roof outside the specially built museum show the height of the ship's original masts. Today the Vasa Museum is the most visited museum in Scandinavia, with over one million visitors a year.

There are several different exhibitions around the ship to tell the incredible story (it was truly so impressive-- it sucked us in!) There is also a film about the Vasa (shown in 13 different languages so make a note when you first get there about what time it will play in your language of choice). Tours of the museum take place every day and admission is free for children up to 18 years (it's also included in with your Stockholm pass). 

 

 

ROSENDALS TRÄDGÅRD

Rosendals Trädgård stockholm

Rosendals Trädgård is a garden open to the public situated on Djurgården, west of Rosendal Palace, in the central part of StockholmSweden.  It’s s open to public visitors and exists so that visitors can experience nature and learn about different cultural effects on gardening throughout history.  Sarah and I biked there from our first hotel, Oaxen (more to come about that in a minute) and fell in love with how charming and picturesque everything on the property was.

Rosendals Trädgård stockholm

For more than thirty years Rosendals’ Garden Foundation has cultivated and spread biodynamic farming practices (a form of alternative agriculture very similar to organic farming, but it includes various esoteric concepts).

Rosendals Garden is a driver of the farm to fork concept, as they harvest vegetables, herbs, flowers and fruits directly from the gardens to use for ingredients in their café and woodfired bakery.

As a visitor you can enjoy strolling in the garden, as well having a meal, sandwich or something sweet from the artisanal bakery in their greenhouse café. They also have a farm shop and plant shop on site with loads of fun kitchen items you can bring home with you. Throughout the year they also organize events, private functions and exhibitions.

Rosendals Trädgård Stockholm
Rosendals Trädgård stockholm sweden
Rosendals Trädgård Stockholm Sweden
Rosendals Trädgård stockholm
Rosendals Trädgård lunch stockholm
Rosendals Trädgård lunch

Biking here and having lunch (then Fika!) was honestly one of my favorite things we did in Stockholm. I highly recommend paying them a visit so you can experience it for yourself. 

 

GO FOR A FIKA

Rosendals Trädgård fika stockholm

You may be wondering what I've meant by my aforementioned "Fika" reference. The Swedes are known for their afternoon "Fika", which basically means having coffee and a piece of cake or a pastry (which, in my humble opinion, is one of the greatest cultural traditions of all time).  Sweden has a highly developed culture when it comes to baked goods, so you’ll find loads of cafés and cake shops all over the city. Again, Rosendals Trädgård (pictured above) is probably my favorite that we had. Wherever you go, you can't visit Sweden without a proper Fika experience!

 

OAXEN

oaxen stockholm sweden

Oaxen Prince van Orangiën was easily one of the most memorable hotels where I've ever stayed.  This vessel was originally a home and office for a shipowner who sailed around Europe with his dredge-fleet. Today, it's luxuriously furnished with decor consisting of oak, ebony, rosewood and Belgian slate (as well as five different kinds of marble). It has been meticulously managed and maintained by its former owners (serving as a private home until 2007 when it became this small boutique hotel). 

We stayed in the Chief Mate's Cabin #6: A magnificent cabin with panoramic view. The room is 18 sqm with a Queen-size bed, private bathroom and a shower. The cabin is located at the bow on the upper deck with an exit to a private outdoor deck (with great views of Gröna Lund amusement park and Kastellholmen). Breakfast was also included and was served in another beautifully decorated cabin. 

I can't think of a more quintessentially Swedish experience than staying directly on the water. I highly recommend this unique and luxurious hotel to anyone looking for a memorable accomodation.   

Chief Mate’s Cabin No 6 | Balcony

Chief Mate’s Cabin No 6 | Balcony

Chief Mate’s Cabin No 6

Chief Mate’s Cabin No 6

oaxen stockholm sweden
oaxen stockholm sweden
Breakfast Room

Breakfast Room

Chief Mate’s Cabin No 6

Chief Mate’s Cabin No 6

Chief Mate’s Cabin No 6

Chief Mate’s Cabin No 6

oaxen stockholm

Under the same ownership and directly across from our hotel, we were fortunate enough to dine at Oaxen Slip: where they serve a unique interpretation of Swedish bistro fare with hearty and uncomplicated dishes. The ambiance is airy and inviting with prominent nautical features. The dishes were all delicious and the staff did a great job of educating us on the traditional Swedish fare as we tried each course. Even still, I very much got the impression that we were mostly surrounded by locals rather than tourists. If you're looking for a contemporary spin on traditional Swedish food in an enjoyable atmosphere, definitley pay Oaxen Slip a visit. 

oaxen stockholm
oaxen stockholm
oaxen stockholm
oaxen stockholm
stockholm sweden

One of the best meals we had in Stockholm was at Den Glyden Freden (translation: The Golden Peace). They've served classic Swedish cuisine since 1722. Whether you're a well-known cultural figures, along-distance visitor or a local regular, chances are you're heading to Den Glyden Freden to enjoy the good food and the authentic atmosphere. It was here that I had the best Swedish meatballs of my entire life (served as they are traditionally: with mashed potatoes, creamy gravy, and tart lingonberry preserves. While you're enjoying the delicious food, you're also sure to appreciate the cozy candlelit ambiance and beautiful antique decor. 

Den Gyldene Freden stockholm sweden
Den Gyldene Freden stockholm sweden
swedish meatballs Den Gyldene Freden
Den Gyldene Freden stockholm sweden


 

 

SÖDERMALM

stockholm sweden

We loved walking to Södermalm, a prominent island directly south of Gamla Stan. This part of town has a relaxed, creative ambiance with artistic shops, eclectic cafes, and most famously, Fotografiska (a contemporary photo gallery in a former industrial building by the water). For sweeping views over the city, head to the Katarina Elevator (or even better, try dinner at Erik's). 

 

HOTEL BIRGERJARL

For the second half of our time in Stockholm, we stayed at Hotel Birger Jarl. Built in 1974, the hotel has been revamped to become a lovely showcase for Swedish design. Their lobby doubles as an exhibition space for local artists, while 12 local designers have been roped in to create suites and bedrooms.

While I loved the unique experience we had at Oaxen, I will say that Birger Jarl is more centrally and conveniently located if that is a concern for you (and it was still a very lovely accomodation!). Their rates include breakfast, discounts at several local shops and restaurants, and free entrance to Kulturhuset and the National Museum of Fine Arts. 

hotel birgerjarl stockholm
hotel birger jarl stockholm sweden
hotel birger jarl stockholm

 

There is much more to do in Stockholm than I could fit into a single blog post, but hopefully this provides you with some insight as to what you can't miss while visiting! For more information about planning a trip, be sure to review Visit Stockholm's site

 

As always, I appreciate you stopping by and reading about my travels! You may have noticed I haven't been posting quite as often as I once did... and there is a reason for that. I'm still very deep in all the planning so I can't disclose too much quite yet, but come June I'm planning to leave Nashville for about six months (fingers crossed all goes according to plan and I'll be able to share more about why!) In the meantime, know that I'm not getting lazy or halting my travel plans- just a lot of moving pieces I'm getting sorted at the moment! Stay tuned for more...

 

Until then, have a lovely week! 

xx

Whitney

blonde atlas

Budapest Travel Guide

budapest travel guide

A couple months ago my friend Haley and I had the great pleasure of exploring Budapest: the Hungarian capital and arguably, the most fascinating city in eastern Europe. Divided in half by the Danube, Budapest is comprised of a hilly "Buda" district on the west side of the river and a flat "Pest" side on the east.

I'd often heard Budapest is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, and I would have to agree there are few places that compare architecturally (the city is exploding with gorgeous baroque, neoclassical, Eclectic and art nouveau buildings). 

budapest hungary

But beyond the architecture, Budapest is exploding history, culture and countless other reasons to visit. While it may sound a bit intimidating (or even uninteresting) to someone who is only familiar with the popular tourist destinations like London, Paris or Rome, I guarantee anyone will find this cosmopolitan eastern-European city to greatly exceed expectations. I actually think one could enjoy a full week in this city, but unfortunately we only had about 36 hours to squeeze in as much as we could. So regardless of how much time you can afford to spend in the Hungarian capital, here's what I learned during my time in this fascinating city: 

 

know before you go: 

  • LANGUAGE: Hungarian, although most everyone we met spoke English. As always, I suggest learning a few basic words/phrases to respect the local culture. I believe at minimum, one should always learn how to say "thank you" in the native tongue. We were told to say "köszi" (pronounced coo-see). I later learned this was a more informal way to say thank you, so if you'd like to learn a few different translations, try watching this video.

  • CURRENCY: Hungarian Forint. While most places accepted bank cards, we did withdraw some cash from an ATM at the airport once we arrived. WARNING: the conversion is a bit confusing ($1 USD equals roughly 250 HUF). We ended up taking out WAY too much money because the suggested amounts at the airport are intentionally set high in hopes that tourists will take out a lot of money and therefore, need to spend it while in Hungary. So be sure to know how much you're taking out before going through with the ATM transaction.

  • GRATUITY: Tipping is not as customary as it is in the states. Plan on leaving ~30Ft to 50Ft per drink at the bar and between 10-12% while dining at restaurants.

  • GETTING AROUND: Budapest is a very walkable city! That's pretty much all we did. We did take a taxi once or twice, and a funicular up to Fisherman's Bastion (more about that in a minute) but everything else we did on foot. Staying central is important if you want that benefit-- I will speak to our accommodations that offered that in a minute.

budapest hungary

 

WHAT TO DO

FISHERMAN'S BASTION

If you're looking for views in Budapest, look no further than Fisherman's Bastion. Designed and built between 1895 and 1902, this neo-Gothic terrace is named after the medieval guild of fishermen who protected Budapest from invasion. It is situated on the Buda bank of the Danube, on the Castle hill, and is probably the most beautiful part of Budapest (in my opinion anyway!) Travelers around the world seems to agree that Fisherman's Bastion looks like something out of a fairytale (many have said it resembles walking around Hogwarts). 

Once you're up here, you can see gorgeous views of Buda Castle, Hungarian parliament, Matthias Church (right next door) and pretty much a sweeping panoramic view of the entire city of Budapest. We came for sunset and it was honestly the most ideal place to watch the sky turn pink and the city lights come alive. 

budapest fisherman's bastion

To get here, you can take the funicular from Chain Bridge. Ticket prices for the funicular run around 700 Hungarian forint ($2.50) for kids and 1,200 Hungarian forint ($4.25) for adults. That trip alone is a fun way to get up the steep Castle hill (although if you want to work of some of that goulash, you can always take the stairs!)

 

 

SZÉCHENYI THERMAL BATH

Locals will say that "if you poke a hole in the ground anywhere in Hungary, you'll find hot water." In fact, one of the reasons the Romans first colonized the area immediately to the west of the River Danube was to utilize the thermal springs (ruins from these baths are still visible today). Turkish baths were also built in the area between 1541–1686. These served both for bathing and medicinal purposes, and some are still in use today. 

Around the 1920s, Budapest gained its reputation as a city of spas as more continued to be built. Today, the thermal baths are actually part of their health-care system (doctors regularly prescribe treatments that include soaking in various combinations of heat and minerals).

It's safe to say that visiting one of these baths is simply a must while in Budapest. Haley and I opted to visit the most popular one: Széchenyi thermal bath. 

Széchenyi thermal bath

Built in 1913, Széchenyi thermal bath is the largest one in all of Europe. While this may be a tourist “must",  rest assured- you’ll also find locals of all shapes and sizes soaking or huddled around the chess boards.

thermal bath house budapest

Some things to know before visiting?:

  • Given the fact that this bath house is the most popular, anticipate crowds.

  • Admission to the bath equals roughly the equivalent of $20 (USD) depending on when you visit.

  • Towels, robes and swimsuits are also available for rent (I learned this after I spent my time soaking in a sports bra and black underwear because I forgot to pack one).

  • Spa services are also available, everything from cheap massages to pedicures to mud treatments. Prices for each treatment vary, but you can see a full list of services with costs here.

 

Széchenyi Chain Bridge

Széchenyi chain bridge budapest

Guarded by lions that symbolize power, Széchenyi Lánchíd (translating to "the Chain Bridge") is the city's first that offered a connection from the Buda and Pest sides of the city. 

Prior to this bridge, people needed boats (or a freeze!) to be able to cross the river. In fact, sometimes people would walk across the frozen Danube and end up getting stranded on the other side during a thaw. Legend has it that an important local once got stuck on the other side for a week while trying to get to his dad's funeral. He ended up missed the funeral and was so frustrated that he commissioned the building of Budapest's first permanent bridge.

The Chain Bridge was finished in 1849 and immediately became an important symbol of the city. While it (along with other great bridges of Budapest) was destroyed in World War II, rebuilding became a top priority.  We loved walking across this beautiful bridge (especially from the Pest side toward the Buda side) for incredible views of Buda Castle, Fisherman's Bastion and Hungarian Parliament. 

Széchenyi Chain Bridge budapest hungary

 

HUNGARIAN PARLIAMENT

The Hungarian Parliament building is a beautiful example of Neo-Gothic architecture (with hints of Renaissance and Baroque as well). It's just over 100 years old, but is arguably the most iconic building in Budapest today. Located directly on the Danube (on the Pest side of the city), this is the third largest Parliament building in the world and definitely a sight you can't miss at least seeing while visiting Budapest. While we unfortunately didn't have time for a proper tour, if you book a ticket in advance (here) you can tour the inside (so long as the National Assembly is not in session). 

 

MÁTYÁS-TEMPLOM | MATTHIAS CHURCH

fisherman's bastion budapest

Right next door to Fisherman's Bastion is Matthias Church, a stunning Roman Catholic church known for it's Gothic architecture and colorful patterned roof. Given our very limited time in Budapest we unfortunately didn't have time to go inside (there was quite a long line outside!) so be sure to allow time to wait or get there right when the open if you want to see the interior. 

 

 

what TO EAT and where

I was a bit apprehensive as to whether or not I'd like Hungarian cuisine, but I can honestly say I loved it! While visiting Budapest, be sure to try the following dishes: 

GOULASH: Arguably the most popular Hungarian dish, goulash contains chunks of beef, potatoes, and vegetables, plus plenty of paprika and spices. I loved the dish I tried at Cafe Kor (pictured below). 

GOULASH CAFE KOR

 

TÖLTÖTT KÁPOSZTA (STUFFED CABBAGE): Large leaves of cabbage, stuffed with meat and rice, which are cooked and then smothered with sour cream. I was nervous when my server at Spinoza (mentioned below) recommended it but I honestly was so impressed- it was fantastic! 

STUFFED CABBAGE BUDAPEST HUNGARY

 

KÜRTOSKALÁCS (CHIMNEY CAKES): A Transylvanian sweet spiral pull-apart bread that is baked rotisserie-style outdoors over charcoal. I originally tried this sweet treat (often rolled in cinammon + sugar) in Prague and fell in love with it's sweet, warm, gooey, deliciousness. This time, we snacked on one while visiting one of the Christmas markets in the city center. 

 

OTHER FOOD TO TRY: 

  • Tokaji Aszú (Aszu wine from Tokaj): Sweet, dessert wine from Hungary's famous wine region (and World Heritage Site), Tokaj.

  • Lángos (fried dough): A plate-sized sheet of fried dough that is usually smothered with sour cream and cheese. Other possible toppings include garlic sauce or ketchup.

  • Pörkölt (meat stew): A pastoral stew made of meat (often beef or chicken gizzards), tomato, paprika, and onions, usually served with a side of Hungarian noodles called nokedli.

While we were only in the city for a couple days, we experienced several highly recommended eateries in our short trip (where we ate a lot of the above!)

 

MAZEL TOV

mazel tov budapest hungary
mazel tov budapest hungary

Mazel Tov came highly recommended as one of Budapest’s hottest hangouts, and I can see why. It's bright ambience and contemporary feel made for an incredible dining atmosphere, and the food was genuinely fantastic. We ended up splitting the hummus plate with shwarma + falafels (and it was plenty for both Haley and I!) This would be a great place to come for lunch or dinner, although a booking in advance would be recommended as it was quite popular. 

mazel tov budapest hungary

 

CAFE KOR

We ate at Cafe Kor on our first night in Budapest when we asked our hotel where we could find authentic Hungarian food. Shortly after, we found ourselves in this cozy vaulted space with wooden floors and wrought-iron tables. Their menu is extensive, offering a variety of European fare and hearty Hungarian dishes of smoked sausage, potatoes and sour cream. Again, it would be wise to make a booking in advance- our hotel was happy to call ahead and reserve a table for us that evening. 

 

 

SZIMPLA KERT RUIN BAR

Ruin bars are all the rage in Budapest and Szimpla Kert is the Crown Jewel of them all. These bars are built in Budapest’s old Jewish quarter in the ruins of abandoned buildings, stores, or lots. They may not look like much from the outside, but once you walk in you'll find yourself in the middle of a hip, artsy bar that's bustling with crowds talking, people smoking hookah, an eclectic assortment of art, dancing, and enjoying the laid-back atmosphere. This is more of a place to come drink than it is somewhere to eat, but it's something you can't miss nonetheless. 

 

 

SPINOZA CAFÉ

We ate at Spinoza Cafe on our last night in Budapest and fell in love with the warm ambiance and delicious Hungarian food. This is where I had stuffed cabbage (it's worth noting again how much it surprised and delighted me!) A pianist played most of the evening and we dined over candlelight, which made for such a cozy setting (in addition to the wonderful food!) I'd advise making a booking in advance- we snagged the last table (it's not very big!) by chance when we stumbled in so we got lucky!

 

 

WHERE TO STAY

 

KEMPINSKI BUDAPEST HOTEL

We absolutely loved staying at Kempinski Budapest. Not only was the location ideal (right in Erzsébet Sqaure on the Pest side of the city and a short walk to just about every sight you want to see!) but every other detail was carefully considered to ensure a comfortable stay. The staff was most accommodating and friendly (they helped us several times between recommendations, restaurant bookings and ordering taxis). They also had such an impressive breakfast spread that we indulged in both mornings (and they even filled my massive water bottle with coffee bright and early on the morning we left to drive 5 hours to Slovenia. 

 

kempenski  budapest

Budapest is affordably priced in general, but I was really impressed by the rates Kempinski charges for all you get as a guest- I'd argue it's an incredible value for a luxury experience and I'd highly recommend staying here for many reasons!

 

Overall, Budapest was an incredible destination that Haley and I both loved visiting and I would absolutely go back in a heartbeat. I hope this post inspires you to plan a trip to the Hungarian capital for yourself. If there's still something you have questions about, let me know in the comments below!

Thanks so much as always for popping in and reading about my adventures! Stay tuned for more travel guides coming in the near future. 

 

xx

Whitney

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