Travel

Where to go in Belgium: Brussels, Bruges + Ghent

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Nestled between Germany and France in the middle of Europe, tiny Belgium is easy to overlook. But as small as it may be, make no mistake: this beautiful country is brimming with a variety of European culture and institutions, making it one of Europe's great secrets. 

Belgium is known for its medieval towns, dazzling art, Renaissance architecture an also for serving as headquarters of the European Union and NATO. It’s comprised of various regions including Dutch-speaking Flanders in the north, French-speaking Wallonia to the south and a German-speaking community to the east.

If you’re a new international traveler, fear not. Everything in Belgium feels close together, organized, and the people there are lovely (there's also practically no language barrier). But if that's not reason enough to visit, I have another trick up my sleeve to sell you: the food. Yep, this country is one you'll want the stretchy pants for. Whether you choose to indulge in something savory like buckets of mussels or the best fries in Europe (with mayonnaise, obvi), something sweet like Belgian waffles or their world-class chocolate, or if even if you prefer to stick to a liquid "diet" by drinking their famous beer this is one region where your tastebuds won't be disappointed in the slightest. 

While Belgium may be a tiny country, there are countless towns worth seeing. So on my most recent trip, my friend Sarah and I did some research and decided to visit 3 different towns in 3 different days (perks of everything being close together!) Our top picks?:

 

BRUSSELS

Brussels has way more to offer than most people realize. Apart from its famous chocolates and beers, it's home to roughly 90 museums, stunning architecture, lovely parks, and wonderful people. 

Though (like the rest of Belgium) Brussels is officially bilingual, most people here speak French first (so pulling some French phrases out of your brain is a polite courtesy if you can manage). 

Serving as the unofficial capital of Europe, this cosmopolitan city hosts businessmen from around the world (making it a fantastic place to Bumble for all my singles out there- trust me on this one). It's the political nerve center of united Europe (which also means that when Europeans want to protest, this tends to be where they demonstrate).

If you only see one attraction in Brussels, head to the central square of the city known as Grand-Place. Not only is it considered one of the most beautiful places in the world, but it's also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The first time I visited Brussels was during the Christmas season and this is where the city's massive tree was displayed (along with an impressive light show at night). On my most recent trip (which was in May), a jazz festival was held here. No matter when you visit, you can guarantee to find entertainment (not to mention some of the most gorgeous art nouevau facades in all of Europe). 

 

As previously mentioned, beer here is a must. To be perfectly honest, this isn't my drink of choice but that doesn't mean I can't enjoy it (especially when I'm someplace like Belgium!) While it's in a touristy area and probably not a hot spot for the locals, we loved going to Little Delirium to sit outside and drink flights of beer (they had a great selection of local beer and a fun sidewalk atmosphere).  

If you only go to one restaurant in Brussels, make it this one. This chic brasserie is housed in a former bank with gorgeous stained-glass ceilings, creating one of the most beautiful dinner atmospheres I've ever been in. But aside from a stunning environment, this is a wonderful place to partake in Belgian cuisine. The ingredients are carefully selected from Belgian artisans, while the wines come exclusively from Belgian producers. Everything we tried was fantastic (although my personal favorites were the meatballs and the speculoos dessert!) 

 

 

MAISON DANDOY BRUSSELS

Repeat after me: Maison Dandoy is where you want to get your waffles in Brussels. Don't get me wrong, there are a lot of great waffles out there- but this is by far the best one that I had. While they technically are the oldest and most famous biscuit shop in Brussels known for their speculoos (a traditional Belgian cookie), everything they make is fantastic and will certainly satisfy your sweet tooth. There is a location conveniently located off the Grand-Place so you can even order it for take away and sit there to enjoy it if you prefer. 

 

 

I’d highly recommend staying in Brussels the entire time you’re in Belgium, even though I absolutely recommend taking day trips to other towns! Since Belgium is such a small country, no town is more than 2 hours away by train so it’s totally doable to leave in the morning and head back to Brussels in the evening. Chance are you’ll be coming and going from Belgium via the airport or Eurostar in Brussels, so you may as well stay there the entire time so you’re not lugging your suitcases here there and everywhere. Regardless of what you’re looking for in a hotel, here are a few options I highly recommend based on my past stays: 

 

SOFITEL LE LOUISE HOTEL BRUSSELS

We spent the majority of our hotel time at Sofitel Le Louise: a 5 star luxury hotel in Brussels prestigious Avenue Louise district nestled amid quiet streets lined with chestnut trees designer boutiques and art deco mansions.

With its stunning plays on color and light this stylish hotel blends Brussels historic beauty with French art de vivre. From the moment you walk in and see the ruby pink crystal chandeliers and translucent wall carved with lace patterns, you'll fall in love with this beautiful hotel. 

We truly loved everything about our stay (especially the incredible room service breakfast that we ordered every morning- these pastries were insane!) 

Le Louise is about a 15 minute walk away from the touristy center of the city, which is still convenient to reach but also a tranquil oasis away from the chaos. If you're looking for a luxury (yet attainable) option with contemporary finishes, Sofitel Le Louise is an amazing place to stay in Brussels that I highly recommend. 

 

 

HILTON BRUSSELS GRAND PLACE

Should you prefer to stay in the heart of the city, we stayed at Hilton Brussels Grand Place, which was an incredible experience. This hotel is only a 3 minute walk from Grand-Place and offers first-class accommodations (including free wi-fi and a delicious breakfast). It was so easy to get anywhere in the city from here (especially the train station for our day trips to Bruges and Gent!) I'd recommend this property to anyone who prioritizes location, but still wants a quality experience. 

 

WILTCHER'S STEIGENBERGER

I actually stayed here on my last trip to Brussels on a cold December night at Christmas-time and it was absolutely magical. This five-star luxury hotel is also located on Avenue Le Louise and has hosted guests like Bill Clinton and Mick Jagger. This is definitely the most luxurious hotel that I stayed at during my time in Brussels (which sounds about right because it also has the highest price tag.) Every tiny detail is absolutely lovely: Nespresso machines in every room, the most impressive breakfast spread you can imagine, marble countertops in the bathrooms, spacious rooms, luxurious bedding-- all of it was heavenly. If you're willing to splurge a little for the ultimate experience, I definitley recommend Steigenberger Wiltcher's.

 

Regardless of where you go in Belgium, the capital city of Brussels is an absolute must. I love every experience I've had here, although if you have flexibility (and don't mind the cold!) I would definitely recommend Christmas time so you can experience the Christmas markets, mulled wine and amazing light show in Grand Place. But no matter when you visit- just make sure you get here!

 

 

BRUGES

So, first: a disclaimer. We took a lot of photos in Brugge (as the Flemish people who live in this part of Belgium call their town, or Bruges as the French speaking half of the country say). 

This little town is bursting with idyllic architecture, Renoir canals,  serene Flemish masterpieces, and, according to locals, the best beer in the world. The word Brugge/Bruges comes from the Viking word for "wharf" because it's been a trading center for a long time.

We spent most of our time simply wandering around the town, taking photos, admiring the architecture, eating chocolate and drinking beer (sounds like a pretty magical day, huh?)

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One of my favorite parts about Brugge is the architecture. It's so easy to see the influence from its Dutch neighbor! Literally every corner looks like it's out of a storybook. It was truly a dream!

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You don't need a grand agenda in Bruges- just go! Let yourself get lost and admire this quaint little town. Trains from Brussels run roughly every hour (check the station times to be certain) but it's super simple to purchase. I had no idea what I was doing but people at the station (both in Brussels and Bruge) were very helpful and got us exactly where we needed to be. 

 

 

GHENT

For our last day in Belgium we went to Gent (or Ghent): a port city in the northwestern part of the country. During the Middle Ages it was a prominent city-state. Today, it serves as a university town and hub of many cultures. It's known for medieval architecture (such as 12th-century Gravensteen castle and the Graslei, a row of guildhalls beside the Leie river harbor) but to be honest, it was definitely the least touristy place we went in Belgium. I felt like we experienced a day in the life of Belgium as we wandered through Gent. People passed by on their bikes, sat outside at cafes, and carried on with everyday life. 

Again, no real agenda here! Just wandered around, admired the architecture, drank some more beer and ate some more fries (noticing my trend here?) Gent was a unique little town that felt much different than many destinations I've been in Europe, but I really loved seeing someplace off the beaten path from tourism and observing everyday life in another culture. If you enjoy the same, I definitely recommend coming here!

 

 

Belgium is an amazing country where you could truly spend all your time wandering the streets of each town and only eat waffles or stop for a beer. I loved every second we spent here and will definitley be back in the future. 

 

Have questions about planning your trip? Let me know in the comments below! 

Thanks for stopping by friends!

xx

Whitney

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Dijon, Burgundy and the Côte de Nuits region of France

DIJON FRANCE TRAVEL GUIDE

Happy Wednesday, friends! I know I've been talking about France an awful lot lately, and I'm still not done! Today I'm talking about another region I visited during my two week road-trip through this beautiful country: Dijon (which falls in the Côte de Nuits region of Burgundy). To be honest, it all started because I saw Dijon was on our way from Provence to Paris and I thought to myself  "Could be fun to see where the mustard comes from." Little did I know all this area has to offer in the way of wine-making and gastronomic offerings-- not to mention gorgeous countryside, rolling green hills of mustard fields and medieval villages with a wide range of architecture.

I got in touch with my friends at Destination Dijon who helped us plan the perfect itinerary for our short visit. As I mentioned, Dijon is the capital city of the historical Burgundy region in eastern France (which encompasses Côte de Nuits- kind of confusing). This area is home to most of the world's great Pinot Noirs (along with a small number of high-quality Chardonnays) so naturally, wine tasting was high on our agenda. 

 

DUFOULEUR PÈRE & FILS

While there were certainly and abundance of wineries we could visit, we opted for Dufouleur Père & Fils because of the great reviews we read and its proximity to the heart of Dijon (where we were staying). It was hands down the most fun I've ever had at a wine tasting. Our winemaker was hilarious and so personable- we became instant friends (and he taught us some pretty hysterical phrases in French). Not only was it fun and set in the idyllic, dimly-lit wine cellar but we also tried some seriously incredible wines. I usually only get to bring 1-2 bottles of alcohol home from each trip since I'm gone for so long and my suitcase is already so full, but this was one of my bottles (I'm not typically a chardonnay drinker, but they made the best I've ever tasted in my life and I couldn't leave without some). I'd definitely recommend popping in here for a tasting during your visit- and of course, to purchase some wine to bring home yourself!

 

 

FROMAGERIE GAUGRY

Our friend at Dufouleur Père & Fils told us we couldn't leave the area without trying some cheese at Fromagerie Gaugry, so we took him at his word. We went on a tour of the property and learned about the process of making the cheese: starting with the milk, the ripening and coagulation of the milk, moulding, draining and unmoulding, salting and finally- maturing. After, we sat down to try all the different kinds: L'epoisses Aop, Le Petit Gaugry, L'ami du Chambertin, Le Palet de Bourgogne, Le Soumaintrain P.G.I, Le Chaource AOP, Le Brillat-Savarin, Le Brochonnais and Le Plaisir au Chablis. Each was unique in its own way, but all were delicious! We browsed the gift shop (where you can purchase any of the cheese, along with a wide variety of Dijon-made mustards in the area). If epicurean delicacies pique your interest, this is definitely a stop you'll want to add to your itinerary. 

 

Both Dufouleur Père & Fils and Fromagerie Gaugry were fantastic ways to observe two great French passions, wine and food, coming together in the beautiful region of Burgundy. And there are loads of other places like them you can visit in Dijon! For more information, check out the available wine & gastronomy tours at Destination Dijon.

 

GRAND HOTEL LA CLOCHE DIJON- MGALLERY BY SOFITEL

While we spent most of our time on this trip in the outlying regions (doing the wine + cheese tours/tastings) we stayed in the heart of Dijon at Grand Hôtel la Cloche Dijon, which is a beautiful five-star luxury hotel by Sofitel. Nestled among the steeples of the capital of Burgundy, this property is a classified historical monument and in an ideal location for your time in Dijon. I loved that the exterior was quintessentially classic + French, but the interior was chic + modern. 

The breakfast was fantastic, the room more than comfortable, and overall I give it a big thumbs up. If you're staying in Dijon, this hotel will not disappoint.

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For the rest of our time in Dijon, we let ourselves get lost in the charming sandstone streets. The architecture here is so lovely - I was happy to simply walk around for the rest of the afternoon + evening to admire all of it. We sat at a cafe outside in the main square, Place de la Libération for dinner that evening which was so fun for people watching. Kids were playing in the fountains, people were walking their dogs, and we made friends with the family from Brussels at the table next to us. It was the perfect ending to our time in this idyllic town. 

Dijon is a lovely little village in beautiful region worth exploring. Trains from Paris are under 2 hours, making it a perfect little excursion to add onto a pre-existing trip!

Still have questions about this area that I didn't answer? Let me know in the comments below! Thanks so much for stopping by, friends!

xx

Whitney

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Road Trips in France: Toulouse and Montpellier

Happy Thursday! Today I'm rewinding to the very beginning of my most recent trip through France to share about my time in Toulouse and just outside Montpellier. While Paris is one of my favorite cities in the world (check out my Travel Guide and Hotel Guide for more about the city of lights) there are SO many other destinations in this beautiful country that I knew I wanted to see. So I did some homework, mapped out a route and set out on a two week road trip from the south-west corner all the way up to northern coast.

Full disclosure, this is not a comprehensive post where I break down the intricacies of every-single-thing you need to know. While I want to be a helpful resource to show you the "best of the best" of every destination, I also want to help show you different styles of traveling. I (personally) don't believe seeing this region of France is something you do with a grand agenda. Since these are less-popular destinations than some of the "heavy hitters" in Europe, there's not really a laundry list of things you're "supposed to do." So instead, I recommend to relax a little, let yourself go with the flow and take everything in along the way. I will say that the best way to visit either of these, especially if you group them together with villages in Provence, you'll want to rent a car to get around (and as I mentioned in my Étretat post, we spent quite a bit of cash on tolls so I'd advise planning accordingly - this is a good resource for more information.)

 

TOULOUSE

After my trip to Prague, I had 24 hours on my own to kill before meeting up with my friend Marcia. I caught a flight to Toulouse, nicknamed "La Ville Rose" (aka The Pink City) known for the hues of its terra-cotta bricks. Toulouse is someplace that's been on my radar for a while now. I'd read articles in Condé Nast Traveller and Vogue praising this soulful metropolis in southwestern France. It's situated between the Pyrenees mountains, very close to the Mediterranean and just around the corner from one of the most beautiful and popular regions in France, the Dordogne. In the short time I spent here, I quickly became very aware of how much history, culture, epicurean excellence and beauty this city possesses. I set out with no agenda and simply got lost roaming through the narrow blush alleys and strolled along the Garonne river.

 

Grand Hôtel de l'Opéra

In the heart of the city is a breathtaking courtyard and domineering façade known as "Le Capitole"-- serving as the City Hall. Here, you'll find a variety of musicians, cafes and anything else embodying the "Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler" (let the good times roll) lifestyle. I stayed at Grand Hôtel de l'Opéra, a beautiful four-star hotel that's rich in history, modern in comfort and overlooks the Capitole square.

 

This hotel was a former Monastery dating back to the 17th century. Today, the 57 elegant rooms offer a refined style with unique charm (and lots of them offer a balcony or terrace that overlooks Le Capitole). They also have a Gastronomic restaurant, Les Jardins de l'Opéra, on site which offers delicious cuisine and a beautiful atmosphere. 

The staff was most welcoming and accommodating and I couldn't have been in a more optimal location for exploring the city by foot. I'd highly recommend this gem to anyone paying Toulouse a visit!

 

While my time in Toulouse was fleeting, one thing I know about this beautiful city is that they know how to have a good time. Whether in bustling food markets, the impressive wine cafés or relishing in the hum of the jazz, techno and rock scenes, the pink city is sure to captivate your heart. I can't wait to return again in the future!

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MONTPELLIER

Once my friend Marcia arrived the next day, we hopped in the car and set out for Montpellier, France. This (almost) coastal town is only 10km inland from the Mediterranean Sea and is known for its medieval streets and warm subtropical climate. We stayed slightly outside the city for more of a tranquil retreat so that Marcia could recover from jetlag and I could recover from 6 weeks on the road. 

 

DOMAINE DE VERCHANT

The Domaine de Verchant is a place that disconnects you from the outside world in a cozy cocoon of luxury. Set in the heart of a restored vineyard estate, this five-star castle/ hotel/ château offers a wide array of unique apartments and villas- each with unique decor. The setting is deliberately intimate to maintain a low accommodation capacity to promote optimal service and comfort. No matter if we were at the impressive breakfast spread or lounging by any of the beautiful pools, it felt as if we were the only ones there. 

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To be perfectly honest, we planned on exploring more of Montpellier that evening but we loved Domaine de Verchant so much that we ended up staying on property the entire time! For dinner that evening, we ate a gourmet meal at “Verchant” one of the restaurants on-site with sweeping views of the vineyards. The staff was very accommodating and everything we ate was fantastic. But then again, that was true for our entire experience overall. Domaine de Verchant was exactly what we both needed: a place to rest that's set in a beautiful and quintessentially French atmosphere. I highly recommend staying here to anyone passing through the southern region of France who is looking for the same. 

 

Toulouse and Montpellier (or Domaine de Verchant anyway!) were each unique in their own way, but both were destinations I'm glad I visited. From here we journeyed onto Provence (which you can read about in my Provenceal Travel Guide). No matter what you're looking for in a destination, I sincerely can't recommend going off the beaten path enough. It's places like these little towns and villages that you truly get a taste of the local culture- something you could accidentally miss in a big city like Paris where there is so much going on. Visiting less-popular destinations has become one of the most rewarding parts of travel for me, and it's my hope that introducing you to some of these places encourages you to get outside your comfort zone and try something new. 

Any questions about these destinations? Let me know in the comments below. 

Thanks for stopping by, and stay tuned for another stop on my road-trip through France: Dijon!

xx

Whitney

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