Florence Food Guide

Once again, Happy Tuesday! I'm still holding down the fort in Italy, but have transitioned from Florence to the Tuscan countryside for a week long yoga retreat in Cortona. My goal this week is to take some much needed rest from being on the go non-stop, and to do that I plan on unplugging as much as I can (lucky for me, the wi-fi here is pretty spotty). With that said, I'm holding off on some of the larger posts I still need to tackle (Ireland, Amsterdam, Barcelona... I know, I'm really behind). So let's talk Florence quickly. 

Florence is an incredible city with so much to offer: history, architecture, art... and the food! In all honesty, we didn't do much sight-seeing (actually, not one single museum- gasp!) But I have all intentions of venturing back someday and will give my time and respect to all the masterpieces that deserve it when I do. The purpose of this particular trip was really a time to catch up with family, and so we decided to do that while eating our way through the city (no complaints here). In the process, I discovered some incredible finds (thanks to some recommendations from you!) that I could't not share. So whenever you're looking for the best restaurants in Florence, be sure to hit as many of these culinary gems as you can: 

LUNCH + DINNER

MERCATO CENTRALE

Just between via dell'Ariento, via Sant'Antonino, and via Panicale, you'll find Florence's infamous Mercato Centrale- where vendors sell the primary ingredients of Tuscan cuisine. Fruits, vegetables, nuts, spices, seafood-- they have it all. The main level functions much like a traditional Farmer's Market, but head upstairs for a cafeteria style assortment of restaurants using these farm fresh ingredients. It's the perfect spot to browse, snack and shop for some gifts to bring home (truffle honey anyone?)

LA MÉNAGÈRE

We started our second day at La Menagere after overdoing it on the carbs the previous day, and it couldn't have been a better remedy for our poor, puffy-selves. For starters, the interior is absolutely gorgeous: While the structure itself is beautifully minimalistic (white walls with romantic arched ceilings and the perfect rustic charm), it's complimented with the perfect pops of color from the generous arrangements of beautiful floral arrangements. As if the decor wasn't stunning enough, the food takes it to the next level: colorful salads, juices and smoothies using farm fresh Tuscan ingredients make for food that looks just as good as it tastes. I'm told it's also a fantastic place to come for dinner and after my experience for lunch, you certainly don't have to twist my arm. 

4 LEONI

We stumbled into 4 Leoni on our first night in Florence after the first place we ate was full. ***HEADS UP*** It's always a good idea to have dinner reservations each night you spend in Florence. A lot of the best places are intimate, which means not many tables and they will book up quickly. Luckily for us, 4 Leoni happened to have one last table up for grabs and we gladly snatched it. They have everything you'd hope to find in an Italian eatery: delicious handmade pasta, a romantic ambiance, carafes of wine flowing generously, and staff that treats you like family. Start with the burrata and bruschetta, but save room for the main event: pasta! I died and went to heaven after trying their white truffle pasta (pictured above). Truffles are currently in season, which made the experience that much better. Even though 4 Leoni was a place that we happened upon, I'd make a reservation and go back next time I'm in Florence without question. 

OSTERIA DEL CINGHIALE BIANCO

We attempted to go to Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco (or The White Boar) our first night but learned the hard way that reservations in Florence are often a must. Lucky for us, they had a table available the next night so we nailed a reservation down stat. I'm so glad we did, because this was easily my favorite meal we had in Florence. The table next to us basically insisted that we try the truffle and onion flan, and I'll be forever thankful that they did. I'm not exaggerating in the slightest when I say that I think it might be the best thing I've ever tried in my life (I'm also a truffle fanatic, so if you're not you may want to reconsider.) They also had an incredible Pappardelle with Wild Boar Sauce (pictured above). For dessert, try the Panna Cotta with Caramel-- incredible. 

LA GIOSTRA

La Giostra is easily the most romantic restaurant I've ever been to (so naturally, I went with my dad and step-mom...) The only lighting in the building is from the string lights on the ceiling and the candles on the table. Aside from the lovely ambiance, all of the food was delicious-- they even give you a platter of appetizers while you wait for your meal (no charge-- just included in the service cost). They also have quite an impressive history and running list of clientele, who all agree it's a spot you simply cannot miss whenever you visit Florence. As previously stated, be sure to make a reservation!

TRATTORIA ZA ZA

Neighboring Mercato Centrale you'll find Trattoria Za Za, a charming Italian kitchen with an extensive menu selection (they have just about every Italian dish you can think of-- meaning plenty of delicious truffle options). We went for a proper sit-down lunch after wandering the market, and I loved everything I tried that we ordered (you really can't go wrong). If you go during the day and the weather is nice, sit outside on the patio and watch the people go by at Mercato Centrale. And for dinner? Head inside to their cozy, somewhat eclectic dining room for a romantic ambiance with the same delicious taste. 

BUCA DELL'ORAFO

Ristorante Buca dell'Orafo offers tradtional Tuscan dishes in a typical Florentine atmosphere.  You'll find them right by the Ponte Vecchio bridge, nestled in a It's also hands down the best lasagna I've ever eaten in my life. The interior is intimate and on the small side, so they only have two seatings (the first is at 19:30) so be sure you have a reservation whenever you decide to go. 

APÉRITIF

LA TERRAZZA LOUNGE BAR AT CONTINENTALE HOTEL

Just before you head south across the Ponte Vecchio Bridge there's a hidden gem just inside Continentale Hotel. Take the elevator to the 6th floor and you'll find their rooftop terrace bar that offers sweeping views of the city. They have an incredible selection of aperitifs (if you like gin, try the Boboli- which is shaken with Bombay, Campari, Cointreau and d'orange juice filled with Franciacorta). 

GELATO

CAFFÈ PONTEVECCHIO

At the end of the Ponte Vecchio Bridge, I spotted the elaborate displays of gelato in the window of Caffè Pontevecchio and knew I had to try some. Little did I know they only offer one size and it would be the largest helping of gelato I've ever been serve (but I was okay with it). 

VENCHI

Venchi is a famous brand of chocolate in Florence that's been around since 1878. But in more recent years (starting in 2006) they began producing gelato in order to give customers a new product that was different from their beloved chocolate, but still had the same natural ingredients and crafted feel. Their gelato doesn't have any industrial bases - just a few simple + select natural incredients (fresh milk, fresh cream, sugar, top quality fruit and their chocolate Venchi). Add it all together, and you get a rich, all-Italian gelato with completely natural colors (no lime green pistachio or bright pink for strawberry- the shades are exactly the same as the fruit they come from). 

PERCHÉ NO!

I'd argue that just about all the gelato I've tried in Italy is delicious, but ask a local Italian and they'll tell you otherwise. Pamela, our host for the week, claims that Perché No! (or Why Not!? in English) is the only good gelateria. A bit extreme? Maybe- but I'd agree with her that it's the best gelato I had in Florence. 

I'm sure there are dozens of other places in Florence not mentioned above that are wonderful, but a girl can only eat so much in a few short days. I'm so happy with all the places we went (thanks again to everyone for sharing your recos with me on Instagram!) and I hope you'll get the chance to try them all someday too!

On the opposite end of the spectrum, I'm off to practice yoga (for the second time today #humblebrag) and work off some of this damage I did last week. Thanks for stopping by, and stay tuned for an announcement regarding my trip that I'm excited to share in the next couple of weeks!

xo, 

Whitney

ULTIMATE GUIDE TO THE CHAMPAGNE REGION OF FRANCE

Happy Tuesday! It's been another couple weeks of whirlwind adventures, meaning I've been a bit MIA on the blog. I've been from London to Amsterdam to Seville to Granada to Barcelona and now I'm settled in Florence for the week before my next stop. I'm so excited to recap all of my journeys above, but I still have so many to write about that came before these! So first, let's rewind a bit to August. 

On my most recent trip to Paris, my friend Brenna and I extended to visit Reims- the home of champagne. To say I love champagne is the understatement of the century, so I've always known I had to pay a visit to the source of all it's glory. I’ve tried to do this on my previous two trips but for various reasons it never seemed to work out. But finally, at long last I can now say I've sipped champagne whilst in Champagne-- and it was a wonderful experience. I also learned a lot along the way, so before plan a journey of your own, here are some things to know about the Champagne region of France. 

1. Make it a day trip.

While Reims is roughly 150 km (or ~93 miles) away from Paris, it’s only a quick 45 minute trip on a high speed train- making it an easy trip you can take if you want to get outside of the hustle and bustle of the city for a bit. For the sake of proper exploration (and the fact that I’m abroad for several months), we opted to stay for a couple of days. In all honestly, I’d only recommend you do the same if you also have ample time, because it can easily be done in a day. In general, lugging your suitcase all over Europe is a lot more complicated than you may think. I’ve previously mentioned that finding a lift can be difficult (especially if you stay somewhere besides a hotel) so you’re likely to be going up and down flights of stairs with a suitcase. So plan on taking the first train out and the last train home (I'd advise buying tickets online in advance) to maximize your champagne experience while minimizing the travel efforts. 

2. Expect cellars, not vineyards. 

After visiting Napa earlier this year, I sort of anticipated Reims would resemble the wineries I visited there: sprawling estates housing the cellars nestled on acres of lush, green fields. So you can imagine my state of surprise when I realized most of the tours you’ll take in Reims are in buildings (cellars) located in the heart of the town (sans any sort of field).

While lacking fields may take away some of the romance you picture in your mind compared to a place like Napa, it actually is extremely beneficial for the sake of your travel plans. Those acres of fields make walking impossible and hiring a driver expensive. On the contrary, you can easily walk or take a short cab from the train station to a lot of the popular champagne houses in Reims. 

With all of that said, we were still able to venture out to fields where grapes are grown, however we did so on our own and it required a bit of exploration (and not the cheapest cab I’ve ever taken). 

3. Be prepared for less English

If you have trouble with the language barrier in Paris, then you definitely need to prepare yourself for Reims. Paris hosts significantly more tourists, therefore English is more commonly spoken. And while there are still many English speaking people, don’t expect it to be as common. Every champagne house staff member I came into contact with spoke wonderful English, but I did struggle a bit when it came to transportation (cab drivers, train station employees, etc.) To avoid any unnecessary complications, do a little planning on the front end (buy train tickets in advance, have your location addresses saved in a note on your phone, etc.)

THE CHAMPAGNE HOUSES

Once you decide to go to Reims, you need to decide which houses to visit. There are countless options to choose from (remember that literally all champagne in the world comes from this small region). I'd advise selecting a couple larger, more prestigious house as well as a couple small, boutique ones. For example, we went to Taittinger and Veuve Clicquot, but then also to Jean-Claude Lépitre-- a small family winery that you won't find anywhere in the states. I loved this approach, because now anytime I drink a bottle of Taittinger or Veuve (champagnes that are everywhere around the world) I know exactly where it came from and can share the story of my experience with whomever I'm drinking it with. But at the same time, I loved having the unique experience from the boutique house and trying champagne that I would never be able to taste otherwise. It was so fun to buy a bottle (which Brenna was so kind to take home for me, since my suitcase is obviously pretty full already) that I can save for a special occasion and know that no one else can just pick it up at any ordinary wine store. 

Whatever large house you choose to visit should be one that you're excited about. While you can usually pop in for a tasting just about anywhere, if you want to do a proper tour you should call or email them in advance to secure your reservation. I had several others I also would have loved to try but for the sake of time, we prioritized the following: 

Tattinger

We had such an amazing start to our day by doing a private tour of the Tattinger cellars (complete with a private tasting in their beautiful sitting room). Jean-Pierre (our guide) taught us so much about the Tattinger family, the history of the estate and cellars, and the process of how their champagne is made. Their property is impeccable, and it was so cool to see thousands and thousands of bottles aging that could easily be one that I end up drinking someday! 

Tattinger is the largest, privately owned champagne house in the world. Their flagship wines are the Comtes de Champagne (which is comprised of 100% Chardonnay) as well as their Comtes de Champagne Rosé (70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay). Everything I've ever tried by them is fantastic. 

I'm also so glad I got to do the Tattinger experience with Brenna of all people, because it's the same champagne we popped together just a few months earlier on a jet to Charleston for her birthday! Needless to say, I think when celebrations are in order for either of us, it will remain our bubbly of choice. 

I can't recommend visiting this champagne house enough. The information you'll learn, the wines you'll taste and the beauty you'll see is all incredible. Book your own visit below. 

 

 

Veuve CliCquot

After our tour at Tattinger we went just around the corner to Veuve Clicquot for a tasting (since we were a bit pressed for time and wanted to venture out to the grape fields, we didn't do a tour). Along with their traditional champagne you've tried before, they also serve tastings of their reserve bottles (which aren't available for purchase just anywhere). We opted for that (which was delicious ) and enjoyed it outside in their beautiful courtyard- which even had a few grape vines to make you feel like you were in the field! 

JEAN-CLAUDE LÉPITRE

Our time at Jean-Claude LéPitre was hands down one of the most memorable things I've done in Europe. Our friends at Café Du Palais pointed us in this direction when we explained how badly we wanted to see picturesque fields of grapes like we imagined in our minds. A short phone call later, we were in a cab on the way to the home of a producer who makes their own champagne they exclusively serve at the restaurant. Julien, the son of Jean-Claude greeted us and took us on a tour of the family's wine cellar and let us taste their (delicious) champagnes. He even drove us up the street behind the family estate to their endless fields of grapes so we could have our vineyard experience that we dreamed of. I can't say enough nice things about how great the champagne was or how kind he was (he literally just got a last minute phone call and dropped what he was doing to show us around). They have so many grapes (more than the number of bottles they produce each year) so they actually sell some of their grapes to Veuve Clicquot (who obviously have a greater need for a larger supply). So if you go to Reims, I highly recommend looking up Jean-Claude Lépitre for a truly unforgettable experience. 

THE DINING

There won't be a ton time to eat if you fill your day with tastings, but nonetheless there are some great food experiences to try when your stomach needs to soak up all that champagne! If you're looking for the best places to eat in Reims in a day's time, I'd recommend:

Lunch at Café Du Palais

We were told by multiple people in Reims to pay a visit to Café du Palais during our stay. This quaint café serves traditional local fare (like proper Reims ham) but it's also brimming with history. Since it's start in 1930, they've been acquiring hundreds of Art Déco objects (furniture, portraits, sculptures, etc.) which are still displayed today. The staff was also extremely helpful, and was kind enough to connect us to Jean-Claude Lépitre (which was one of my favorite experiences of the trip!)

Dinner at L'Apostrophe

There are tons of restaurants to choose from in Reims, but we loved having dinner at L'Apostrophe. They boast traditional French fare (I loved their beef for my main and crème brûlée for dessert). They also have a wide variety of champagne to choose from (including all the popular houses as well as small boutique growers). Sit outside on their patio if the weather is nice and enjoy watching all the hustle and bustle go by in the streets of Reims. 

I'm so happy I can finally say I've been to Reims! It was an amazing couple of days and brought me some memories I'll always remember. I hope this helps you plan a trip of your own!

I'm signing off to walk off some of the excessive carbohydrates I've been eating here in Florence! Stay tuned for next week's recap of my adventures in Ireland, and enjoy the rest of your week!

xo, 

Whitney

Life Lessons Abroad: Thoughts on the Upcoming Election

Happy Friday! I'm so happy to be back in London town before I head to Amsterdam tomorrow (and I couldn't be more excited to reunite with my friend Sarah!) I'm currently having breakfast at one of my very favorite restaurants: sketch (my London blog post will be coming eventually but in the meantime be sure to look them up if you're coming here for a visit!)

On the way over here, Haley and I were discussing news back home in the states. We streamed the Today show (from yesterday... #confusing) while we were getting ready this morning and naturally, one of the most popular topics was the recent debate. 

I've been traveling all over Europe for two months now, and without fail I'm always asked the same question immediately once anyone here learns I'm American: "What do you think about the upcoming election?"

My honest answer is I don't care for either candidate. I won't get into reasons why, but needless to say I'm not exactly thrilled about whoever our next President will be. However, it's been incredibly interesting to witness this election process while living overseas. Not only have I heard countless opinions about each candidate from non-American citizens across the globe, but honestly I've been shocked by how much more they know about our candidates than a lot of people in American even do.  But aside from all of that, probably the most interesting thing to see has been how everyone back home discusses the topic on social media. 

I realize the banter is no different than any other "hot topic" we've experienced in the past- but when you're not home and seeing people face to face for a while, all you're left with is what you see them share online. And to be perfectly honest, it's been eye-opening and really disheartening. 

I applaud people for being passionate, and for having opinions. In fact, I'd argue people without either are living a life without purpose. But we've got to find a better way to articulate these matters without being so terrible to one another. 

Earlier this year, I wrote an article that The Everygirl published on "How to Keep Our Differences From Tearing Us Apart". In light of recent events and my feelings in response, I felt compelled to share it again. My hope is that it will encourage you to deliver those passions and opinions of yours (which are all beautiful things) with a little more love. 

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Negative attention seems to arise in every corner of our lives: From Instagram comments to break room chatter, it's almost unavoidable. In the news, controversy seems to sell even better than sex, so naturally our culture responds by magnifying anything that has drama. We’re constantly hearing about shootings in schools and movie theaters, the long list of couples in the spotlight who are calling it quits, or the divisive state of our political candidates. We develop polarized stances on issues that tear us apart—issues like gun control, race, and same sex marriage.

But we don’t stop there. We dissect far beyond the issue at large. We pick and cut and poke and stab all the way down deep to anything that’s remotely associated with each topic. Even fast food restaurants are tied to an issue (I’m still reading about Chick-fil-A how many years later?).

On a more shallow level, it’s become all too common for us to find humor in cynicism. We read articles about the kind of people to hate on Instagram. We follow influencers on social media or reality TV, pick them apart, and laugh. And yet, we don’t stop there. We take a snide comment made from one human to another, and feel empowered to take it to a public audience on the Internet via a tweet or a status.

 I typically try to refrain from participating in the banter of it all- the complaining, the rolling of the eyes, the Facebook rants, and all various forms of negativity. I’m often too exhausted or depleted at the end of each day to bother using any remaining energy on weighing in one way or the other. Liking someone's status that I nod my head “yes” to is about as good as it gets. And if I’m being really honest, I’ve refrained from letting myself become involved in a lot of these topics (which do matter, and which I should care about) simply because of the positions that come with each belief. They make me not even want to go there.

Because sometimes taking a stance signs you up to be included with a certain group of people. You’re slapped across the forehead with a label before you can barely get a sentence out of your mouth. And while I'm not ashamed of claiming anything I do believe, these complex issues are categorized in a two-dimensional way, leaving us all forced to over-defend or over-explain ourselves. It's exhausting just talking about it. 

The thing is, I really do believe it’s important to know what you believe in and to stand firmly in your beliefs. So that’s what I’m doing here. But this stance isn’t to coax you to take my side on a particular issue, to tell you why your opinion is ignorant, or to validate a belief of mine with some inspirational quote or recent poll that discredits yours. My simple hope for bothering to write this at all is to encourage you—whoever you are and whatever it is you believe so passionately—to do so with more love. 

You see, the people we don’t understand, the people who aren’t very nice, the people we disagree with, or the people who believe much differently than we do… they’re not going away. If you escape one, you’re sure to find another. And if we let ourselves respond to every offender with an equal response, we’re bound to leave each other angry, resentful, self-righteous, and deeply wounded. 

I know they can make you mad. I get what it feels like when the emotions bubble up and you want to scream. How all the common logic you could ever muster seems to shine the brightest floodlight on so much unintelligence or stupidity. But...

We have to believe that people are doing the best they can.

Sure, we could choose to believe differently, but do you really want to? Call me naively optimistic, but I want to live in a world where people believe that each other are good. A world where me tapping my foot and sighing impatiently at the post office is because I’m stressed and overwhelmed, not because I have a mean spirit. That when I feel bad about doing it later, I can believe the people around me assumed I was just having a hard day, and not that I’m a bad person overall. That regardless of how different an opinion may be from yours, it was likely formed because of many complex circumstances (whose roots go down deeper than the eye can see), and not just to piss you off.  
 
Maybe you don’t spew hate. Maybe you’re patting yourself on the back right now because none of the aforementioned things has left you feeling guilty. And while guilt is the farthest from my motives here, I do challenge you with this: Could you love more? 

Saying you’ll do this, love people more and assume they’re doing the best they can, makes you feel warm and fuzzy inside. It sounds good on a bumper sticker. But it’s important to note that it doesn't come without a cost. 
 
First, it will require you to listen. To actually listen—not just wait for your cue to jump in with a counterpoint. We can only be loved to the extent which we are known, and the same goes vice versa. How can you ever love someone if you’re too busy building a case against them or trying to disprove them?

Second, it will require you to habitually make choices that go against what feels natural. This means biting your tongue. It means letting go and moving on when you know you could probably win the argument. It means doing it again and again and again every time—instead of keeping some distorted “more good than bad” tally in your head.

Lastly, it will require you to be vulnerable. Vulnerability (by definition) is to be susceptible to being wounded or hurt, and open to moral attack or criticism. Giving someone the benefit of the doubt that they’re doing the best they can, and still loving them, means they may take advantage of you. They may call you weak or respond with other insults. They may question your motives, or speak ill of you. But somebody has to lay his or her weapon down first if peace is ever going to be made. 

None of the requirements above are easy, and I’m far from mastering any of them, so hear me when I say this isn’t any kind of attempt at self-praise. But it’s my hope that we can all do a better job of putting these into practice. Because I believe it’s the only way to make the world more a bearable (dare I say wonderful?) place to live.

It's not about changing opinions.

My hope is that regardless of your opinions, I can love you well. No matter what your stance on gun control, the presidential candidates, selfies, breastfeeding, SEC football, or GMO's. I want to expand my mind beyond the capacity of my own understanding. To listen to what you have to say and to assume it’s the best you can give. And to love you where you are. And I hope that you’ll find yourself able to do the same. To me, and to others around you. 
 

So let’s be mavericks. Let’s lay our weapons down, treat hate with kindness, and tear down walls that have kept us apart. Let's love each other relentlessly. Let's do the very best that we can. 

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I'm off to soak in the last bit of London and time with Haley (for this trip anyway...) Thanks for stopping by, and wishing all of you a happy weekend!

xo

Whitney